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About arrow points - necessity or useless?

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JNystrom:
I've made some personal progress in flight shoots, passing modest 250m ( 273 yards) multiple times with shortbows of 18-23" draw. The best being ironically with my weakest bow of 43 pounds, 22-23" draw and 54" ntn rowan flatbow (1" of reflex) of 275 yards.
Anyways, while making multiple flight arrows and testing them I came to think, is there some thing with the point weight I haven't figured out? All my past arrows have been pointless.
My arrow balance point has allways varied, and i have tested from 1,5" forward to 1,5" backward balance point.
The world of flight arrows feels like a huge sea of possibilities... I hope i have enough time and enthusiasm to try all! :D

What has been a treasure for me the past days to soak in information about flight gear, has been this grayson collection site. https://as-file.col.missouri.edu/fmi/webd#Grayson%20Objects
Use quest account, do a search and type in description field "flight" and you will find hundreds of gear from the golden flight era of 1930-1980.
Resemblance with the amount of arrows between the 1900's guys and Monus?  ;)

Here is where i noticed, that allmost every arrow has a point weight! So there is something really important in them. What is it??

Marc St Louis:
Those are pretty good distances.  Your balance point is about what I found to work best.  Getting an additional 3" of draw length would help to get past 300 yards.  I have used no point and small points and did not find any advantage to having a point.  I also found that an arrow weight of around 275 to 300 grains worked best for a 50# bow.  I think the best distance I ever got was around 330 yards.  Here are some of the regular flight arrows I have made

JNystrom:
But if working balance point area is 3", its reeeeally wide "good point". Could it be that shooting to headwind, forward balance works, when shooting to backwind, backward balance works? I haven't still figured that much difference with the balance point. Maybe when i get some decent yards under the arrows...

Those are really nice looking arrows. What is the fletching size in those 275-300 grains weights?

Thing with the point is that it really makes a difference with the expected lifetime of the arrow, my soft pine/spruce arrows tend to slowly break from the point. I have somehow fixed this with heattreating the ends and putting a superglue coat. For example it would be really annoying to break good arrow before competition.
I try to make bows with longer draws, its just that i like my bows short and heavy. I have a wych elm static 90 degree recurve, 60# @23" and 55" long. It just has 3 inches of reflex and it is a selfbow.

I hope these new records we just heard from the salt flats boost the enthusiasm towards flight shooting! I have many thoughts and questions that i would like to share. As you might noticed! :D
We really need some Monus arrows presented here!

edit: length of the elm recurve was 55", not 59".

mikekeswick:
Here is a link to some information on the Turkish flight arrows.
http://www.turkishculture.org/lifestyles/turkish-culture-portal/turkish-flight-arrows-554.htm?type=1

I have found that the bulbous nock appears to give greater distance, possibly cleaning up the air flow around the back of the arrow? Having the fletching as far back as possible as per the pictures is a good idea.
The ivory points that they used are that small that it would only be a small increase in weight compared to no point. The main function I guess is more to strengthen the end of the arrow and allow them to be shaped better than wood alone.

JNystrom:
Nice points, they make perfect sense. Bulbous nock and sharp taper at the end. The sharp taper might be the thing.
It's common knowledge that point needs to be more like a bullet, than really sharp. But the ivory will surely hold it's form better than wood itself. So after all the effort you put into the arrow, you actually get to shoot it again.

I have read that article many times, but didn't pay that much attention to the nock end. Do you construct your nock with two pieces of wood like in the article? Or just sand it to its shape.

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