Drawknives

[Lucasade]

The drawknife I originally bought is impossible to sharpen - I guess in my ignorance I bought one that had been de-tempered by the seller overusing a grinding wheel. Anyway, I now have a bit of money and would be grateful for any tips/recommendations? 

 I'm in the UK and probably only in the market for second hand rather than new.

Thank you as always.

[osage outlaw]

I like to use really old draw knives that I get from estate auctions or antique stores.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I have to agree with Clint. I have used new and antique knives, Ill take an antique any day and twice on Sundays.

[Del the cat]

E-bay, boot fairs. maybe see if there's anyone who could harden and temper your current one?
Del

[George Tsoukalas]

Does not compute. De-tempering would make it easier to sharpen. It just would not hold its edge as long.

I use a medium stone to sharpen my drawknife. No way I would use a grinder. No way.

Follow the bevel with a circular motion. Take your time. Some things cannot be rushed.

Turn the knife over. Place the stone flat against the knife and once again use a circular motion. Flat against the back. Flat.

Jawge

[Badger]

 Those old draw knives will usually sharpen best with a file. That's how they are designed. If a cheap file will cut it is too soft but a good file should be able to put an edge on it. I like the old knives much better.

[stuckinthemud]

Really old ones, that auction site has loads, but there's a wonderful second hand tool shop near Axminster in Colyton called The Tool Box and there's Bristol Design near Bristol infirmary sells really nice hand tools made by them and a shop full of old hand tools. No doubt there are others but those are the two I have used

[George Tsoukalas]

I would only use a file if there are nicks. All I have is old knives. I use stones on quality blades.
Jawge

[Badger]

 George they were specifically designed to be file sharpened. You can put an edge you can shave with in just a few swipes with a good file. The old woodworkers liked to be able to sharpen them quickly while working on their shaving horse.Some of the newer ones use harder metals and they don't hold an edge near as well because they microscopically chip away the fine edge.

[Stick Bender]

If I have time I use a granite sharpning block with diferent grit sand papers learned to sharpen plane blades like that years ago and works great with draw knifes or resurfacing scrapers if in a hury I use a stone locked in a vice I flatten the back first and stone the bevel to a burr and use a old barbers strap with jewlers rouge to work the burr off.

[Stick Bender]

Im going to try the file method Steve I have a old one I picked up at the antique store I havent touched yet never new about filing them I posted at the same time as you and didnt see your post  tell after ,sharpening tools can be theropy like chasing a ring to me some times.

[George Tsoukalas]

LOL, Steve, at 69 I think I, too, qualify as an old timer. Jawge

[Danzn Bar]

Jawge, you are a true Classic ...IMHO 
DBar

[willie]

De-tempering would make it easier to sharpen. It just would not hold its edge as long

I agree, unless it is really soft and the edge just rolls too easy.

chipping often happens if the edge is too fine (low angle) for the temper or steel. it can be felt by dragging the edge over a fingernail. the good part is that it's getting hard so a steeper sharpening angle might do the trick

you might consider a rehardening and retempering if its decent High carbon steel,  ( i.e. older quality name brand)
a newer "economy" tool might not respond as well if it was mfg from lower carbon steel that was induction hardened.

[Lucasade]

Thank you for all the replies. By 'impossible to sharpen' I meant impossible to keep an edge that will do any more than polish the wood I'm trying to work. I've tried both stone and my Stihl chainsaw file to sharpen it - I sharpen my other tools (knives, axes, lawnmower blades, chainsaw) and they keep their edge for a good time. I agree that some things shouldn't be rushed but I also find that a regularly used blade usually just needs a few strokes to bring it back up to properly sharp.

It is an old blade that was bought off the auction site, and it has turned into the main reason I'm not  making progress with bows as it's just too frustrating trying to use it when everyone else seems to be able to turn half a log into a rough bow in a couple of hours!