Juniper starting thickness? and other questions

[gfugal]

I'm working on a juniper bow for the trade. I've worked with oak and now honey locus, and I've been reducing those to a little over 1/2 an inch thick as a starting point before I start rasping. However, Juniper is much less stiff and dense than oak or locust, so I'm not sure what a good starting thickness I should rough it out too. Does anyone with experience know? if I'm aiming for 50 lbs and 60 some odd inches long? You can see in the first picture that the bow is currently a little under an inch thick, didn't dare go thinner until I got feedback. The second picture is a straight on view from the end.

The third picture is of one of the tips. Not sure how to deal with this. I'm planning on putting in siyahs and sinew backing. So I was thinking of cutting the back down and hope that the combination of being non-working and backed will prevent the violations from causing an issue.

The fourth picture is of a knot on the belly that goes into the side. what's the best way to handle that?

Sorry for so many questions. I appreciate any feedback.

[Pat B]

IMO, you are at the starting thickness. Start removing wood until both limbs bend evenly and together at the draw and weight you desire. 
like this... 

[High-Desert]

Thick! Leave it way thicker than you think. An inch wouldn't be too thick to start for a bow 60" long. If you are sinew backing the juniper, you can go much shorter than 60" if you want. If it was for a 28" draw. 54" wouldn't be too short.

[Danzn Bar]

I would put I on a caul a get the limbs looking the same (reflex/deflex) as possible before I start tillering or changing the limb thickness.
DBar

[Springbuck]

Pat B is right!  I am usually aiming for, like 3/4" thick, plus a backing at the limbs, even thicker at the grip.

Weird seeing "my" staves on the web, posted by somebody else!  Ha!

[gfugal]

I would put I on a caul a get the limbs looking the same (reflex/deflex) as possible before I start tillering or changing the limb thickness.
DBar

You talking about the honey locust stave or the Juniper? What would happen if i didn't get them the same? Is it just harder to tiller like a character bow if i don't, or is there a performance decrement? I hesitate to treat the honey locust more since one billet delevloped quite a bit of checks from when i steamed/boiled it for a twist and aligning the splice.

Thick! Leave it way thicker than you think. An inch wouldn't be too thick to start for a bow 60" long. If you are sinew backing the juniper, you can go much shorter than 60" if you want. If it was for a 28" draw. 54" wouldn't be too short.

I'm nervous since every short bow i've tried has come in underweight, and some have broken so i don't want to push the envolope. Are you sujesting i cut the ends off where it sticks up?

Pat B is right!  I am usually aiming for, like 3/4" thick, plus a backing at the limbs, even thicker at the grip.

Weird seeing "my" staves on the web, posted by somebody else!  Ha!

I'll take yours and Pat Bs advice and start where i'm at. I'll even the thickness then see how it bends with a liitle less than 50 lbs.

Yeah i bet it is weird seeing you locust billets. Haha but i appeciate them very much. I hope to not dispoint you with them and waste them.

[Danzn Bar]

It doesn't take much dry heat to make small corrections like you have on both staves... IMO If you start tillering with like limbs it is easier to tiller and both limbs will be working pretty much the same.  The limbs will be stress the same/similar which equals a bow that lasts longer.
DBar