Finishing

[BowEd]

This is hard for me to tell and kind of a dumb question really but does everybody think fishing with 0000 steel wool is the same as 400 grit paper?
With self bows I usually don't finish farther then 220 grit most times.A person has to keep I guess what they call tooth on the surface somewhat for the finish to adhere to.Seems all first coats of a finish soak in to a degree anyway.

[Pappy]

I hardly ever go passed 220, I know some finish sand them much more and that is fine, I just want it smooth, tool marks out which I usually do with a scrapper and no sharp edges anywhere. That is about all they get from me before sealing.
 Pappy

[PEARL DRUMS]

I stop at 220 paper and switch to 0000 wool. I like a glass smooth surface, not shiney, but smooth.

I use a lot of oil finishes, so "sticking" doesn't mean much as it soaks in when done right.

[Marc St Louis]

I also stop at 220 and switch to 0000 steel wool.  Even fine steel wool will produce a smoother finish than 320 grit sandpaper

[DC]

Someone, maybe PD, mentioned awhile ago that his finish wouldn't stick to horn if it was too smooth. Maybe there is different "tooth" for different materials. I usually go to 220 and if I find a minor flaw a pass with the scraper is smoother than the 220 surface.

[Pat B]

I usually go to 220 but that's it. My bows usually have a few tool marks, etc but that's as good as it gets for me. I use Tru-Oil on all my bows and usually after that is done is when I notice the tool marks.   

[High-Desert]

I unnecessarily go to 400 grit when finishing. 0000 steel wool is about 1000 grit equivalent. You can really go as smooth as you want on the wood before applying a finish, they don't need that surface area for adhesion, they aren't supporting anything to need that.
Under an oil finish, it hard to tell the difference between a 220 sanding and a 400, it's just more time spent sanding.

[upstatenybowyer]

I usually go to 220, apply 3-4 coats of finish, then smooth out with steel wool or 400 paper, then another few coats, another quick smooth out, then 1 final coat.

[Limbwalker]

I will share what I've been doing. Just like everyone else I sand up to 220. I've used TruOil on guitar necks, but have not bought anymore recently. I like it and will eventually pick more up. What I do have on hand is spar urathane-gloss no less. I don't like a real glossy finish usually, but gloss is what I build with and add one final coat of satin. That looks pretty sharp and makes a clear satin finish.

But I've been trying this, building with the gloss spar, and the final coat I rub in finishing wax using 0000 steel wool as the applicator for the wax and I have really come to like that so far. I know spar is not very primitive, however it's what I have and when I'm out of that I may try some other things if anyone has any good recommendations that'd be sweet.

Also I've notice certain brands of steel wool are no bueno, I get tired of tiny pieces of steel falling out. If someone knows a good brand of steel wool from experience, I'd be much obliged.

Johny

[BowEd]

Thanks fellas.I've come to like lacquer as a finish.I guess because of my FG bow making friends habits as they use it for everything,and the fact that it dries so fast and does'nt yellow any.Magna lac in the dull finish.I'll still go over it with 0000 steel wool yet.Not primitive but durable.

[bubby]

As far as finish not sticking to horn that is too smooth, i try not to get any on it any more i wetsand to 800 or 1000 then hit it with the buffing wheel

[jaxenro]

I'm probably a little different as usual.

I sand to 400 then wet the wood to raise the grain wait till it dries then resand and do it again

Then I switch to automotive paper and sand from 800 down to 2000 grit.

I apply a daily coat of red root oil alternated with hardener for a week or ten days letting each dry in and wiping off any excess.

After the last coat I wet sand with 2000 grit and mineral oil then polish with a cotton cloth

I am experimenting with then applying three or four coats of varnish and rubbing out with 2000 grit paper and then polish and swirl remover but you need to let the oil dry for a good amount of time first

[Dances with squirrels]

I work hard to not let a single tool mark or scratch make it past me, but my process is pretty simple compared to some. I sand the bare wood down to 240, and then hit it with 400 lightly, mainly because it helps find marks when held up to the light. Then I dye them with anilines if I want, and spray several coats of Thunderbird, sand and repeat with 240 and 400 until the pores of the wood are leveled off, then apply a few finish coats.

[BowEd]

My friends here used to use thunderbird finish too.I'll have to ask again why they changed to magna lac.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I'd love to have a spray booth and equipment some day. I'd never go back.