Shredding Sinew

[DC]

Thanks Goat  Some of the pieces have quite a taper to them. How do you get them to lay smooth on the bow? I'm finding that if I start shredding from the outside the pieces run by the "Y" a little better

DWS On my elk tendons if I threw away from the "Y" up I'd be losing about 4" of tendon. The tendons are 15-18" long so that I'd be throwing away 1/4

PatM  soaking seemed to help but then I have to make sure all the pieces are dry before I bag them. That's not the end of the world though

[DC]

What length goes in the glue pot?

[mikekeswick]

I pound it for a little while on the anvil. Then clamp by the Y in my vice. I then only ever split the pieces in half. Keep going until the 'halves' are fine enough. Don't do it when wet....it is too weak then. 10+ years of rock climbing help get your fingers strong enough
the leg sinew is the best - backstrap is too rough textured at final diameter for me to use. Bear in mind that I am only sinewing hornbows and need the very best/smoothest sinew. Backstrap also doesn't absorb glue as well and the finished backing is a bit 'dry' for hornbows, however it is ok for wood bows and a good burnishing at the correct stage of drying will smooth it off.
Once you have all the sinew halved then it is time to cut off at the Y end and then you remove the 'tapered' sections so that the whole length is one diameter. I do this with my teeth. After they are all the same diameter get a good strong steel comb and comb the ends so that you have a gradual taper (going the correct way now!).

[chamookman]

I watched Gary process a TON of leg Sinew over the Years. He used a Hammer and had a chunk of rail-road rail for an anvil. You don't beat the crap out of it, kinda a finesse thing, practice makes perfect. I believe He always thought Back Sinew was inferior to Leg Tendon, Great for Arrow Wraps and such. Bob

[Stick Bender]

After shreading & soaking you can lay the tapered bundles out and overlap them by abut 1 1/2 in. The tapers are a non isue also if your having isues with pulling apart the shreads with the pliers a couple needle nose vice scrips help elk sinew is usually preety easy to get apart.

[DuBois]

With tough big legs I use a trim hammer on concrete floor and finesse as not to pound through fibers along the edge. I put 1/2 of the fat end in the table vise and cinch it tight. might smash a tiny bit on the end but that is usually pretty tough anyway. I get a split going of just a nice portion of the free half (can even nick it gently with a sharp hatchet but should be able to get it with pliers) and I pull it without much regard for tearing a few fibers in half. They will still be usable, just as a shorter bunch when done. If I can't get it free all the way I just get another little section and work it the same way. Maybe switch to one of the Y ends and I just keep coming at it this way until I have it down to several bigger cords. You can then tear into them without too much trouble.
As you go you'll start to see how the Y is interlaced and be able to pick out which part to tug next. Sometimes it was worth it to tear a few parts and just accept that these would still be usable as short bundles.

[DC]

Is a louse comb too fine for combing out the sinew?

[Dakota Kid]

Yes I would say so. The teeth may bend as well.

They sell paint brush combs at paint stores with what look like finishing nails for teeth. That's what I use. Well a homemade version anyway. A piece of hardwood pre-drilled to hold long finishing nails epoxied in place for the teeth.