Sinew Processes ?

[Bob Barnes]

The reason I use old bed sheets is because they are thin and they breathe plus I only keep the wrap on for a few hours.

-my wife would kill me if I took her bed sheets...   I wonder what would be the cheapest substitute as far as clothe? 

[PatM]

My solution now is to combine the cloth and inner tube process together. I buy rolls of  a support bandage such as vetwrap or similar product in black color.

   A few dollars a roll and re-useable with a bit of care.

[bradsmith2010]

you can still pull it into reflex if it is wrapped or not,,
most guys to tighten or raise the brace as the sinew cures,,
really,, I think if the bow is holding 4 inches to 6 inches  of reflex when you put the sinew on you are good,,
wrapping it for short time at least is gonna smooth it down a bunch,,
but I dont think its gonna hurt the  sinew to not wrap it,, I have tried it both ways,,
and preferr to wrap it for at least one Sleep,,, then I do raise the brace as the sinew cures,,

[willie]

the vet wrap does seem like a cheap and easy product to use with something like this.

More details, Pat?   or an addendum to the sticky?

[willie]

If a (sinewed) reflex design calls for more reflex at the tips, than reverse bracing wants to provide,

do you wrap the sinew and bow on  form all together at once?

seems like tapering  the tips so that a reverse brace is profiled nice, might make for a sinew heavy outerlimb

[PatM]

Nothing really to add. Just wrap it and place it in the sun and mold it into a crowned shape while it's soft.
 Let it cool and gel and unwrap and take a look. Repeat as needed.

 We all likely reverse brace whether we wrap or not. Logically wrapping provides much more "locking to the core" potential. You're actually providing pressure just like you would when binding lams together.

 I doubt you would build a perry reflex and just count on reverse bracing as your clamp source.

[PatM]

If a (sinewed) reflex design calls for more reflex at the tips, than reverse bracing wants to provide,

do you wrap the sinew and bow on  form all together at once?

seems like tapering  the tips so that a reverse brace is profiled nice, might make for a sinew heavy outerlimb

 Not really clear what you mean. Reverse bracing isn't really supposed to give the bow more than just reflex.
   The more complex parts of a profile are formed separately and the reverse brace may enhance them.

 You control how much sinew goes where.

[DC]

I think I'm missing something. Correct me where I'm wrong. We want reflex so that we stretch the sinew more when we draw the bow. Why would we want to put the sinew on and then pull it into reflex? Doesn't that mean that we would use up some of that hard won reflex just getting the sinew back to it's starting point?

[PatM]

I think I'm missing something. Correct me where I'm wrong. We want reflex so that we stretch the sinew more when we draw the bow. Why would we want to put the sinew on and then pull it into reflex? Doesn't that mean that we would use up some of that hard won reflex just getting the sinew back to it's starting point?

  You're pulling it into additional reflex, not just laying it on a flat stave and  then bending it backwards.

 The additional reflex just takes ANY tension out of the sinew and helps it shrink maximally.

[DC]

 The additional reflex just takes ANY tension out of the sinew and helps it shrink maximally.

Got it, thanks

[Stick Bender]

Ok DC I will try a lay mans exsplanation at least my under standing but say you want 4 1/2 in of reflex you reverse string the bow or a combination  of natural steamed heat treated or what ever combination you want as long as it's reverse strung to 4 in. apply your layers then pull the other 1/2 reflex in to the bow  after the glue gels locking the sinew into compression & the belly into tension those dimentions  where just for exsample but the idea ! It helps the sinew lock to the core if you just reverse string the bow and add the sinew the belly is under tension but the sinew is not under compretion , That's the best exsplanation  of Adam Korpowitz system I can muster.

[willie]

Pat

sorry, two different questions being mixed here.

1. if you use vet wrap in your work flow, do you use it as a substitute for the innertubes? or over the tubes, or under?
 
2.

The more complex parts of a profile are formed separately

by tillering thickness  or heat bending so that the reverse brace looks good before you apply sinew?

Reverse bracing isn't really supposed to give the bow more than just reflex.

I was thinking that some designs might want to use reverse bracing in order to put the belly in tension when  applying backing, so that it the belly could bend further when drawn.. perry reflex sort of thinking

forced into a form before applying sinew might be one way.  wrap it form and all

also using a form for getting the reflex more towards the tips, as an alternative to permanently heat bending or pre-thinning the outers and tips

[PatM]

I use it instead now. It combines both steps in one. Vetwrap is cloth and rubber mixed together.

 Your other question is essentially just reaching the same result with different methods.   You'll have trouble strapping a bow to a form and still being able to sinew it.

 Just reverse bracing and reverse whip tillering will achieve the same result.

 I doubt you're going to really notice the difference between heating a gentle curve to an outer and sinewing versus just forcing it to the bend and sinewing it.

 That's putting too much emphasis on the gains of perry reflexing.

[willie]

You'll have trouble strapping a bow to a form and still being able to sinew it.

yes, I was thinking of applying then pulling it down into the form

That's putting too much emphasis on the gains of perry reflexing.

perhaps better left for a different thread or email, as your PM  inbox is full

[PatM]

You'll have trouble strapping a bow to a form and still being able to sinew it.

yes, I was thinking of applying then pulling it down into the form

That's putting too much emphasis on the gains of perry reflexing.

perhaps better left for a different thread or email, as your PM  inbox is full

 Applying and then pulling it down would probably mash the gelled matrix and tear it apart while it's too soft.  Plus the sinew wouldn't be able to shift enough if you move it that much.  I would probably start to squiggle on the back rather than just being squeezed slightly.