Sinew Processes ?

[Stick Bender]

Hi Fellas I just got this bow all ready this week end to degrease and get the sinew on over the next week or so I was planing on reverse stringing in another 2 in of reflex for a total of about 4 1/2.in I was planing on using the Adam Korpowitz  method of adding more reflex after jelling to put the sinew into compretion  I know Adam spoke to not wrapping the sinew in his book but with all the interest in sinew lately I was wondering what methods others prefer ? This is only my third sinew bow & thought It might be a interesting topic for technics & tips ?

[BowEd]

You know my opinion Ritch.

[Pat B]

I usually do wrap a new sinew job with strips of old bed sheets to help smooth out the sinew and to be sure it stays secure to the limbs. After a few hours I remove the wrap and allow the sinew to dry and cure out.

[gfugal]

Did he give a reason not to wrap? I can't imagine it harming anything unless it slows its drying, or if you leave it on too long. But now i wonder

[PatM]

My how to on here (somewhere) shows you a method for making your sinew practically glass smooth. It eliminates all of the pitfalls of a sinew job that people run into. Gelling too fast, too much glue, smoothness, worrying about how finely shredded the sinew is etc.

Adam is very likely using slow gelling fish bladder glue.  Not very comparable to fast gelling hide glue or Gelatin.

[Greenriverwoodcraft]

I've only sinew backed a half dozen bows and never wrapped any and I have not had any problems.  I do tie the sinew down with some with extra sinew at the tips and at the center of the handle to keep it from lifting as it dries and that seems to do the trick.

[PatM]

Virtually no downside to wrapping and many potential benefits when combined with re-heating. Seems like an easy choice to make.

 Of course if you want a typical gnarly ridged bark like job that cracks and groans.....

[Pat B]

The reason I use old bed sheets is because they are thin and they breathe plus I only keep the wrap on for a few hours.

[Stick Bender]

gfugal he does offer a lengthy exsplanation in his book to long for a thread but in a nut shell after the hide glue gels he adds additional reflex to the bow putting the sinew into compretion locking it to the core he exsplanes in detail is in his book I know some of those short 40 in. Bows are pull upwards of 130 lb and he claims that he never had a sinew failure but I don't  know if wrapping would be compatible with that method he also said there was never any evidence of wrapping in the ancient  Turk bows , but it was pretty common among Native American tribes

[BowEd]

One reason why maybe Adam might not condone wrapping especially if it's heated is on extreme stressed designs on horn bows it should'nt be starved any of glue.A 1 to 1 ratio of sinew to glue is his reccomendation.On regular self bows less stressed I don't think it's that critical.Measuring myself on self bow designs or longer working limbs in paticular I think my ratio many times is 1 to 1/2 sinew to glue.Mass weight wise.

[Stick Bender]

Ok then maybe I will try the wrap method I was just attracted  to the locking to the core part  !

[Stick Bender]

If any body finds a link to Patm sinew build along post it please I'm not finding it  ?

[gfugal]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,43246.0.html

It was a sticky in the archives

[PatM]

Putting the sinew into compression and "locking it to the core" is a bit of a stretch of an explanation. It's still a passive blob at that gelled stage. You're really just letting it sag into the concave of the reflexed back and preventing it from shrinking, pulling up and bridging the gap instead.

[BowEd]

The dynamics of what goes on putting sinew on before and after drying and later after shooting a bow I'm sure Adam has done more research on than anyone else on here.Although everyone is entitled to their opinion.