Arrow pass

[DC]

I'm really interested in your results with this. I'm of the opinion that if this is done the bow will just twist in your hand the few degrees necessary to balance things out. The only way to get closer to center shot is to make the pass abrupt, like right at the arrow pass. The string will find a straight path from the tips through the center of the handle. I'm defining "center" as the place where the pressure of your hand bears on the handle. As an example if you offset the limbs a bunch you will feel the bow twist in your hand as you draw it. Even with a tiny bit of offset it will twist until the tips, the "center" of the handle and your drawing hand are all on the same plane. If you fight this you will torque the bow and your shot will be off.
Remember, this is an opinion

[make-n-break]

Interesting theory DC. I can see why the bow would seem to torque in the hand, theoretically, but I can't say I've really noticed it. I should be all settled into the new shop in the next two weeks or so and ready for some extensive testing. I'm really looking forward to some more hands on testing because the author that wrote about it in one of the early 1990's issues of PA Magazine was very pleased with his results. I will definitely take the time to dig out the issue and write a proper post. I know which box it's in it's just buried at the moment.

 I guess the only thing I have at this point that helps understand why I'm not feeling torque in the hand is that you mention " if you offset the limbs a bunch you will feel the bow twist in your hand"; but it actually takes a very slight adjustment at the handle to bring the string alignment significantly towards the arrow pass side. I would say that both tips are being moved maybe 1/2" after steaming.

[Pappy]

The only problem I have if the string is not down the center of the handle is String slap gets worse, so I always want my close to center and just deal with the arrow flight by spine or dished in at the arrow pass.
 Pappy

[DC]

Interesting theory DC. I can see why the bow would seem to torque in the hand, theoretically, but I can't say I've really noticed it. I should be all settled into the new shop in the next two weeks or so and ready for some extensive testing. I'm really looking forward to some more hands on testing because the author that wrote about it in one of the early 1990's issues of PA Magazine was very pleased with his results. I will definitely take the time to dig out the issue and write a proper post. I know which box it's in it's just buried at the moment.

 I guess the only thing I have at this point that helps understand why I'm not feeling torque in the hand is that you mention " if you offset the limbs a bunch you will feel the bow twist in your hand"; but it actually takes a very slight adjustment at the handle to bring the string alignment significantly towards the arrow pass side. I would say that both tips are being moved maybe 1/2" after steaming.

I've been thinkin'. Tung oil is drying and there's nothing else to do   I still think what I said is true, at least while you're drawing the bow, but when you release it the string heads for it's braced position. I forgot that part. In your case this is offset a bit so maybe it is a good thing. There would still be some twisting going on but a loose grip would probably cover that. In any case a slight change in spine would equalise it.

[bradsmith2010]

I do what makes the bow shoot well,, usually dont have to do much if the arrow is close to spine,, but I am not afraid to dish it there if needed,, as your release and hold on the bow becomes better,, the bow will be more fogiving,, and if the pass is reasonable,, you can tune the bow to shoot very well,, doing very little,, I guess my point is,, the way you are holding and shooting the bow,, is having more effect on your arrow flight,, than a small amount of wood at the pass,,

[Marc St Louis]

With no shelf I sometimes narrow the handle equally on both sides and sometimes a bit more on the arrow pass side.  I tend to shape the arrow pass so the arrow touches the back of the handle although the reverse if it's a flightbow.  I have shaped the handle to have the arrow pass closer to center, by request, like this

[BowEd]

Yep those are trade mark handles I recognize the handiwork of.I'm wondering though if in a highly reflexed design though whether that compromizes it's integrity any.Maybe longer fades help?

[Selfbowman]

The only reason I bring the arrow rest area higher is for a better site picture. Those gappers like that. Arvin

[DesertDisciple]

As stated, I like to shape so the arrow is contacting as little as possible. Then I take a thin piece of leather and shave the edges with a razor so it's fatter in the middle than the edge and glue on.