String wax

[PatM]

It will probably stop slipping but then you'll have too many twists. Better to just make a string with balanced tension and an optimum number of twists.

OK. What is balanced tension and how many is optimum?

 Balanced tension is when the two bundles are the same length before you twist up the main body of the string. If you put a clip on the spot where your tails feather into the main body of the string and untwist the whole middle, is the string longer on one side?

 You'll see some strings where all the accumulated error in tension is just twisted out of sight. The middle of the string can have one side practically straight from end to end with the other wound around it like a vine. ( Or a bine technically. )

[DC]

It will probably stop slipping but then you'll have too many twists. Better to just make a string with balanced tension and an optimum number of twists.

OK. What is balanced tension and how many is optimum?

 Balanced tension is when the two bundles are the same length before you twist up the main body of the string. If you put a clip on the spot where your tails feather into the main body of the string and untwist the whole middle, is the string longer on one side?

 You'll see some strings where all the accumulated error in tension is just twisted out of sight. The middle of the string can have one side practically straight from end to end with the other wound around it like a vine. ( Or a bine technically. )

Nope, that seems OK. I'm doing a forensic exam. I'm going to tear it apart and see if I can spot something. All I notice so far is about 10" of "Cabling" at one end. I put cabling in quotes because I'm not positive if that's what it's called. It's where the two bundles in the main body are twisted the wrong way and so form two distinct bundles rather than twisting into one smooth unit. Is that right?

PS forget all that. I tore apart the wrong string

[loon]

I thought cabling is MAYBE not when they're twisted in the wrong direction but twisted too much or something, or inconsistent twisting either between the bundles at a spot or increasing/decreasing twisting along the length

[PatM]

Before you start on the second loop  place a clip or clamp at the  point where your blended section ends and completely straighten out the two sections before you start on the second loop. That eliminates twist from sneaking too much into the middle section and cabling it.

[DC]

Before you start on the second loop  place a clip or clamp at the  point where your blended section ends and completely straighten out the two sections before you start on the second loop. That eliminates twist from sneaking too much into the middle section and cabling it.

I do that normally and I counter twist about 30 twists. I undid the string(the right one 8 strands ) and made it up an inch shorter. I braced the bow at 4:15 and the brace height was about 4 1/2-5" but falling. It settled a bit at 4 1/4". At 4:30 it was 3 1/2". At 4:50 it was 3 3/8". So it's initial settling in that I'm seeing. I visually compared the remaining loop with the new one before I braced it. As expected the new loop was smaller and the twisted area was thicker. It's 5:00 now and the brace height is down about half the string thickness and with 8 strands that isn't much.
 I guess originally because I had the string an inch long and it went on at low brace, in the first few minutes it settled enough to go right flat. I guess I panicked thinking my old string troubles were back. I'm alright now, I think   Thanks for your help Pat

[PatM]

Also you could mark your tail ends relative to the main string and see if they are moving.

[DC]

When I took this last loop apart I straightened all the twists out and it looks like the loop still started at 10 1/2 " just like it was supposed to. I guess I'm going to have to try shorter tails just to see how long they have to be. I see some videos and it looks like after they form the loop they've only got 3-4" to twist back in. It just doesn't look like enough.

[PatM]

I've used  even less with no slipping and that's using power pro braid fishing line which is really slippery unless you use beeswax to tame it.

[DC]

I'll give it a go tomorrow

[BowEd]

Making double loop strings can take a number of them made to get the system down with.Kinda like staying in practice for some.Almost an over the shoulder type of showing look to get the point across.Making your first loop is easiest.The second loop while making it you have to keep the strands untwisted along the length as you make it when splicing your tails into the main string.That way when you complete the second loop there will be no uraveling of your tails that were spliced back in as you stretch it.Letting the other loop dangle free yet though too that you've just made.Hard to explain with words.Showing is easier and it's just the way I do it.My tapered splices are never more than 4" long back into the main string.I like a 3 ply string too so I use 9 strands of FF plus.
Waxing can help keeping the twist nice and tight for me when I'm flemish twisting the loop and splicing back into the main string.Preferably straight bees wax too.

[George Tsoukalas]

I agree with PatM. Can you believe it, Pat?
But I take the twists out. I do  not counter twist prior to tying the second loop.
It is not unusual for a string to stretch. I don't know how much D 97 does because I use only B50.
I just brace the bow and monitor the brace height. When is stops changing I serve.

Jawge

[BowEd]

For a like length of string that matches my tillering string length with the bowyers knot I cut my lengths of my future double loop length string around 1 foot longer.I don't use a jig or anything like they sell.Just a 7' long marked length of 2by4 with nails in it.After making both loops it usually ends up less than an inch longer then.Not much twist needed to get it to the exact length I need for the bow.I don't like an overly twisted string so I like to get it right.To me more twist in main string the more stretch no matter what the string.
Start with making my loops around 4.5 to 5 inches in from the end of string.1.5" long flemish twisted length for loop and the rest back into the main string.That makes for 4" or less of string tapered back into the main string.That's just me and I hav'nt ever had one undo itself or fail yet.
With FF after just a little stretching prior to putting it on the bow it don't stretch much more or very little.Mostly the tapering up at the loops gets stretched a little along with the loop a little.Less then 8 or 10 twists after that to have it hold the brace height.I'll put around 7" of serving on.Shoot it a bunch tweaking and then put my dental floss string nock on for permanent arrow nocking placement.
Good luck.Once you get it.Make a lot of bows and a string for each one.That'll keep you in practice making strings.

[DC]

I tried one with short tails. I started my loop at 7" and used 2 1/2" for the loop. I pulled and pulled and couldn't make it come apart so I strung it on a bow. It started to "slip", by that I mean the brace height started to go down. I was watching the loop and I saw the little tails sticking out. I realised that if the thing was actually slipping those little tails would disappear into the twist. Does that make sense? Half an hour later and nothing has changed except the brace height has dropped a little more. I don't know for sure what's causing that but I'm pretty sure my twist job is good.

[BowEd]

You bet your tails there are holding good.Good way to check too.Looks and sounds like you got it.I usually just burn them tails down.Sounds about right for a little settling in with your string stretching there I quess.I'm not there.There really is no reason for long spliced in tapering.Just adds weight to the string is all.4" always held for me.Anything more just adds weight to the string.Over twisting on the main string is something I don't care for.Stretches more before settling in is all.That's why it's best for me to get the length right when I make it to avoid that.If you've made them with B50 before you should see a difference.Once FF plus is stretched it's stretched.No need for extra twisting to shorten the string every 50 arrows or so in the breaking in process.Just my experience with it.Others may say something different who like B50 over FF..OO has shown how he stretches his before putting it on the bow too.I just hook one loop onto something and run a big screw driver through the other loop and pull for all I'm worth for a minute or so.I guess I'm pulling at least 70#'s or more when I do that.
It's a fitting process when I make my loops.I want the bottom loop a little smaller than the top loop and just fitting on there with the top loop a little bigger making it easier to unbrace etc.When making the loops I put enough bees wax onto the loop and spliced in area so that the wax helps to hold the first loop twists and taper in place as I make the second loop.Flemish twisting past the tapered area into the string an inch too making each spliced in tapered area the same length.Putting a clothes pin on it is a good idea that Pat M suggested too.
Strings are'nt everybodies favorite thing to do.About like arrow making in a way.Compared to bow making that is.My mentor over here Grant is a heck of a bow maker but has someone else make his strings for him....lol.Sometimes I quess it's too tedious for some fellas....lol.

[PatM]

I tried one with short tails. I started my loop at 7" and used 2 1/2" for the loop. I pulled and pulled and couldn't make it come apart so I strung it on a bow. It started to "slip", by that I mean the brace height started to go down. I was watching the loop and I saw the little tails sticking out. I realised that if the thing was actually slipping those little tails would disappear into the twist. Does that make sense? Half an hour later and nothing has changed except the brace height has dropped a little more. I don't know for sure what's causing that but I'm pretty sure my twist job is good.

 You've still got a lot of twist past the tails. Once you get past the ends don't go so far up the string.