How to take off TruOil without removing wood?

[cool_98_555]

Hello everyone,

I have a bow that I recently finished, and after many, many shots it developed a very shallow, hairline crack about 1/4" across a pin knot.  The crack is perpendicular to the length of the bow.  It looks shallow enough to try to get below it, and the ring I chased on the back is very thick, so I have some room to play with.  It doesn't show any signs of getting bigger at this point and it doesn't make any weird noises at full draw, but I'm very skeptical about it.  Is there a way I can remove the TruOil without scraping it away or sanding it away (not removing any wood)?  I have acetone...wonder if that would work.  Any ideas welcome.  Thank you!

[PatM]

Lacquer thinner or a mild paint stripper

[mikekeswick]

It sounds like a chrysal to me.
Just use fine sandpaper or wirewool.

[Del the cat]

Maybe just be a pinch if it's across the pin... prob best simply left.
Pinches and chrysals go deeper than you'd think (3/16) sanding etc just weakens it further encouraging more surface wood to buckle up.
Keep an eye on it if it gets worse it could eventually be rasped out and patched... but you have to go down deep to take it all out.
Del

[Pappy]

I just lightly scrape it, it comes off pretty easy. You may get a little wood but if you are careful not enough to make any difference. As far as the crack, is it on the back or belly ?

 Pappy

[George Tsoukalas]

I'm confused. If you want to go to a ring below the crack why do you have to first remove the Tru Oil?

A picture would help me understand.

When I tiller a  knot or a knotted pin knot area, I try to let that area appear flatter than the rest of the limb.

While it is praise worthy to try to achieve that perfect tiller picture it is not always best for the bow.

Jawge

[Stick Bender]

I had a bow recently that had a similar problem like yours except it was a small splinter on the out side of a pin knot on a osage bow I did not have tru oil on the bow but shelac I sanded the bow back with 150 grit sand paper & used lacquer thiner & then acid tone & then boling water & dawn dish soap & more boling water it took a while to get the osage oil out & then I applied a tapering flax patch like in Ed Beadmans thread & raw hided the whole bow , that probably would work for you with out having to change the bow weight or removing much wood .

[Pat B]

A light sanding like Pappy said will get it off. The nice thing about Tru-Oil is it is easy to repair. After a light scrape, a rub with steel wool or very fine sandpaper and add more Tru-Oil.
 Seeing the crack will help us help you.

[cool_98_555]

The crack is on the back.  I will try to upload a picture later when I come home.  The crack is located on the back about 2" from the end of the fade on one limb.  It occured after I had put TruOil on the bow and after many shots.  Like I said, no sound at all.  I even drew the bow in front of a mirror so I could see the area as I drew the bow back, and it didn't seem like the crack opened up very much at all.  You can barely see the crack unless you look at it close and under the right lighting.

Until I get pictures up, here is kinda what it looks like:
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The vertical line represents the crack over the pinknot.  The other horizontal lines are small cracks radiating from the pinknot crack, one on both sides like the picture here.  I'll try to upload a picture this evening so you can see.

[Pat B]

I'd first brace the bow and fill all the cracks with super glue. Give the glue a while to dry then brace it again and see if the crack reopens.
 The longitudinal cracks are checks and probably not a problem. The crack across the knot could be worrisome.

[DC]

That is much like the failures I get on OS. Mine are usually "H" shaped with the line across the middle being the crack across the back and the other lines are the edges of the splinters that are lifting on either side of the crack. Is the crack right on the crown of the back?

[cool_98_555]

Yea it is on the crown, only 2" from the end of the fades.  Any ideas?  You're right: it is an "H" shape.

[Stick Bender]

If it was my bow I would patch & raw hide but Im more of a chicken then most these days.

[DC]

On OS that is a typical tension failure. The cross piece of the "H" is right though a pin. I usually throw them away but I've got lots of staves. Sorry.

[cool_98_555]

Here's a picture of the crack.