.54 Great Plains Rifle

[Parnell]

I've been putting in the hours filing and sanding.  The steel is looking polished, all the microswirls are out and any stray file marks are out as I spent the day wet sanding the barrel yesterday.  I've cleaned up all hardware and raised the grain on the walnut stock and sand everything down with 400 grit. 

Some things I'm looking to get input on:

1.  Eric K - On the other post you had said what "really kills the look is to leave the flat place on the back side of the lock panel flat. Round that sucker off."  I'm including a photo of the lock...are you saying that the edges should be rounded off?  I'm a little unclear.  Is the finish that's on this lock now just browning solution?  Wondering about matching it back up after I work it.

2.  I'm not going to use the aqua fortis on the stock - it will be too dark.  So I'm thinking I'll just do a clear finish on that.  Any recommendations otherwise?  Any body think some stain would benefit?  I'm thinking currently to just do the clear finish.

3.  Couple of people recommended I consider not browning the steel and just leave it to brown naturally.  Thoughts on this?  Is it wise to just leave it untouched?  Wet sanding this thing yesterday was interesting because rust would form on the barrel in a matter of minutes from the slurry of carbon-water left behind.  I feel like I want to brown the barrel and other iron parts...

4.  How does the position of the butt plate look.  It isn't PERFECTLY seated and I have to admit, it's no simple thing to get it to sit down exactly.  It's not bad...to what level do I drive myself crazy here?

5.  I know ultimately, it's all up to me in terms of how much work to put in...if it was yours, would you leave a couple little imperfections in the triggergard, butt plate, etc., or would you get it all smooth as glass?

Thanks for the input, fellas.

Steve

[Parnell]

Couple more...

[PEARL DRUMS]

That rifle will mean the world to you by the time you finisher her up, Steve-o.

[Eric Krewson]

No, no, no, the wood behind the lock panel at the wrist where you place your hand.

See that flat place behind the lock panel in the wrist, that is what needs to be blended into round, not left flat.



There is way too much wood in the stock as it comes from the factory in a kit. Google "reshaping a Lyman plains rifle stock" and you may be able to see some examples of a properly shaped stock. It can be made to look more Hawken like.

[Parnell]

Ah ha.  Gotcha now.  Thanks Eric.

[JW_Halverson]

Brass buttplates are a lot easier to "educate" than steel.  You can get a brass one fitted sorta close, then a few well placed hearty bashes with a rubber mallet and suddenly everything is fitted so close you couldn't slip a rolling paper in where there used to be gaps.  Steel might take even more energy to "educate", and I am not going to tell you to do it.

[Parnell]

I see, JW.  I've got it quite close by carefully filing/sanding away the stock to fit the plate.  It's close but if I hold it to a light and carefully look I can see it coming through in a couple little areas.  It's not major but it is a little annoying.  I know it won't make a difference with it shooting but I'm just trying to do the best job I can for my first effort.

I did begin to use the cold browning solution, last night.  I'll see how the process goes on those then I'll do the barrel last.  It's interesting stuff.  I am going to shape the stock a bit more to round that flat area behind the lock plate.

Here are two pictures of where those areas are currently:

[Parnell]

Didn't have any time last night but the browning is coming along well.  Starting to feel comfortable with it.  I really like the way it looks and it's pretty fun to check on it after its development in the humidity down here.   It gets a dusty film to it.  I'll neutralize these pieces tonight with the baking soda water solution.
I think I'll start on the barrel tonight.

[Stoner]

Can you tell me a little more on the browning process? Or maybe a link to some info. thanks John

[Parnell]

Hi Stoner,

From what I understand, there is "hot" and "cold".  Apparently, with the hot you do apply heat after the solution has been applied.  I'm doing the cold browning.  It takes longer but gives it a more authentic look, in my opinion.  It is basically a $5 bottle of solution that is acidic liquid rust.  Make sure everything is degreased, apply the first coat "vigorously" and give it a little to dry...a second and third coat are needed where you card off the dust first then do a single uniform very light pass, more if desired and you want it dark brown.  When you are good with the finish you neutralize it with water and baking soda then oil.

I've really enjoyed this part of the project, very fun.

Of course Murphy's Law kicked in yesterday when I browned the barrel.  I applied the 2nd coat and put it aside on my bench.  We had a mechanic over doing work on my wife's Honda and he apparently touched the barrel with his oily fingers while I wasn't in the garage and I see finger marks.      Annoying, but it won't matter much.  I left a "Do Not Touch" sign on the pieces today.

[Parnell]

It's really starting to come together.  I started the stock last night with original oil finish.  I'm not staining the walnut.  It's dark enough as is, IMO.  I like it with the finish, too.  Under the light it has some sort of golden highlights.  I'm looking forward to getting out and shooting but not looking forward to the process being over.  I've been very happy going through it.  I've got some bow work to do but will have to start a fund for another project in a little while.  Just too cool not to.

[Stoner]

Parnell, Thanks for the info. I have been researching the cold method also. I have got a couple old muzzleloaders from my great grand  father & great uncle. I have been researching restoration on them. Also not a smokepole, but my Remington 870 been with me since the beginning of time. No blue left, tried to camo with no luck. Thought browning might look sharp and give a dull finish for turkey hunting. Thanks John

[Eric Krewson]

Heavy restoration of an old M/L is a no-no. If you happen to have a rifle of note you can turn the value from thousands to hundreds with some sandpaper and finish.

[Buckeye Guy]

Please keep originals  original!

Cold browning is fine for our projects of today

the 870 if its a wingmaster hot blueing is a must in my opionon but the lower grade ones whould be fine for browning probably be considered an upgrade

[Parnell]

All that is left to do is fit the sights.  I like the way the browning turned out and I like the way it finished.  Its a first.  But, I do think that on the next I do I'll let it develop its brown naturally.  I've been speaking to Wildman about how to monitor the process in the future.  I quote, "Barrel brown is the debil, Momma says."

Been working on a powder horn and will start thinking about some leatherwork and a possibilities bag. 

Santa Claus brought me a pistol kit, much to my surprise!


Here are some pictures...