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Offline jeffp51

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glue on points
« on: November 23, 2016, 01:32:04 pm »
So far I have always made my own points, but I just bought a bunch of glue on field points.  Can I use regular hot glue to attach them?
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Offline bow101

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #1 on: November 23, 2016, 01:35:41 pm »
In my experience water based glues just dont cut it, they come out .  I use epoxy.
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #2 on: November 23, 2016, 01:47:33 pm »
Sure can. The key to using hot glue or ferril tite is to roll up some sand paper in a conical shape and twist it around inside the tip to rough it up and get rid of any coolant left over from the mfg process. When you look inside the tip and it shines, your ready for glue.
« Last Edit: November 23, 2016, 01:59:49 pm by PEARL DRUMS »
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Offline bjrogg

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #3 on: November 23, 2016, 02:51:55 pm »
Yup just like Pearl said
Bjrogg
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Offline Pat B

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2016, 06:30:41 pm »
I soak glue on heads in alcohol or acetone for a few minutes and sanding the inside is a good idea too. I use Ferrlite or comparable hot melt glue.
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Offline jimmi the sammi

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #5 on: November 23, 2016, 08:25:59 pm »
Buy a 5/16" X 18 tap and a T handle to hold the tap.  Put the points in a vise and twist the tap down into them until the tap almost twists the point out of the vise.  A little practice will tell you much twist pressure is enough. Glue the point on with hot melt glue or 5 minute epoxy while twisting the point on with a pair of pliers.  You'll be hard pressed to ever pull a point off again in almost any material!  By the way, an epoxied point can be removed with torch heat.
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #6 on: November 24, 2016, 08:04:22 am »
Although I have no problems now, I like the idea of the 5/16-18 tap a lot. At least on my hunting arrows.

 
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline jimmi the sammi

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #7 on: November 24, 2016, 09:55:08 am »
Be careful with light ferruled heads.  The tap can cut through the metal.  Experiment by cutting a little, backing out, then checking to make sure that the metal is cut sufficiently without going through to the outside of the ferrule.  Practice with a throw away head to get the right amount of thread cut before using it on your good points.  Just  a bit of experience here from going too deep on judo points.  Been using this method for many years as have lots of guys from the local area with good results.
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Offline Knoll

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #8 on: November 24, 2016, 11:41:48 am »
Several of interesting ideas here.
I swab out points with alcohol and q-tips. Been using whatever hot melt glue sticks are laying round house. So far, so good.
But will likely incorporate sandpapering step.
« Last Edit: November 24, 2016, 11:44:58 am by Knoll »
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Offline bow101

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #9 on: November 24, 2016, 01:25:58 pm »
Quote from: Knoll on November 24, 2016, 11:41:48 am
Several of interesting ideas here.
I swab out points with alcohol and q-tips. Been using whatever hot melt glue sticks are laying round house. So far, so good.
But will likely incorporate sandpapering step.

Q-tip and alky is what I do as well,  sandpapering thats another good step.  Of course the benefit of using water based glues, you can heat the tips for removal if you are so inclined to switch tips.
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Offline Blayne

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #10 on: November 25, 2016, 12:04:33 am »
I clean mine with a brush in a drill, then clean with acetone on a q-tip and glue up with Ferrel-tite(sp) Once I started doing the acetone trick, I can't remember the last time I have a head come off. I am ofen amazed how the head will come out when I hammer them into not so rotten logs while stumpin'
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Offline BowEd

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #11 on: November 25, 2016, 10:21:52 am »
The tap a thread in idea I bet is pretty secure.New field points I usually just heat up in front of butane torch a bit before putting it on the shaft.That's all,but before that I drill a very fine small hole through the field tip so that when I twist and push the field tip onto the shaft that has the ferrile tite[I don't spare the ferile tite either] on it all warmed up and loose any all air is extruded out of the cavity through those holes.In my mind putting more mating surface area to surface area in there.Might not make sense to many but it works for me.
A number of variables here too.If your just shooting into cardboard or a bag of plastic points don't come off too easy,but if your shooting a narrow diameter shaft[5/16" or less] with a strong bow into these 3D target foam they have nowadays that's different.Narrower shafts go deeper into foam.My driiled through the field tip method has worked for me and my set up on these 3D targets consistently.
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Offline JEB

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #12 on: November 26, 2016, 10:43:47 am »
I use the tap on my field points  and then clean with alchohol. I also use ferr L tite  for glue.  Been using that stuff for 60 years. Using more permanent type glues may make it harder to re-use the field point. 
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Offline Mo_coon-catcher

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Re: glue on points
« Reply #13 on: December 17, 2016, 09:47:29 am »
I'm going to have to try the tap method. I've pretty much learned to despise those compressed fiber targets for ripping of heads. Especially when the targets are new. I've even ripped a few inserts out of carbon and aluminum areows. Any time I would use the target area near school I would just expect to have to replace a few points. That's even with the tips sandpapered and cleaned with alcohol.  I've never had a problem with any other target material but that.

Thanks for that tip.

Kyle
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