Choosing a ring

[bjrogg]

My cousin found me a Osage log. It is my 1st time having any thing to do with Osage and I want to make sure I understand how to pick a ring to chase. I also want to make sure I'm preparing the stave properly for curing. I split the log into 4 staves. They have a little propelled twist but I think I can deal with it. Really straight for 62" then bit of a hook last 10". I also remove bark and creamy layer (cambium?) to what I think is layer of sap wood. Then I sealed ends and back of stave. I believe I have to at least remove sap wood to where my thumb is on side of stave. I'm actually thinking  I should chase ring my thumb is on in picture of end of stave or maybe the one  above it. Any tips or advise for preparing stave would be appreciated. Could I chase ring now or should I let it dry first?thanks.  Bjrogg

[osage outlaw]

I usually take off the white sapwood and seal it 3 times on the back and ends.  Staves from that small of diameter can twist and warp as they dry. 

[Pat B]

I'd go down to the 3rd heartwood ring down and make a bow.
 To help prevent any unwanted twisting while drying you could put the 4 pieces of the puzzle back together and bind them with cordage or thin rope and let them dry some and stabilize.

[bjrogg]

Thanks Osage,Thanks Pat, I think I know what to do now. That sounds like a good idea Pat to put the puzzle back together and let it dry. I was thinking of trying to tie them down to something to keep them straight.
Bjrogg

[osage outlaw]

Was that second growth off of a stump or fallen tree?

[bjrogg]

I really don't know Clint. My cousin knows somebody that gave it to him. I don't think any of us has any experience choosing osage logs for staves. Does it look like it's going to make a bow Clint? Any tips on what to look for when harvesting Osage?
Bjrogg

[osage outlaw]

It looks like there are some bows in there.  You don't have to take off the sapwood if you don't want to.  Some people leave it on for the color contrast.  You still need to chase a ring. The best tip I can give you is to study the bark before you cut a tree.  I like to cut bigger diameter logs.  Belly splits are great because you don't have to remove any bark or sapwood.  Plus I've found the staves from large diameter logs stay straighter as they dry.  I think there is less internal stress in them than what you find in a smaller diameter tree.   I did a post on reading osage bark a couple years ago.  It might help you out.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=49976.0

[mikekeswick]

Any of those rings will work for the back. Thin rings are not a problem at all. Personally I'd take the sapwood off as it has a tendancy to check into the heartwood but there are many ways to skin a cat.

[Dances with squirrels]

Like Mike said, any one of those rings will work for the back of the bow if there are no violations.

Sure, that thicker ring looks attractive, but those are tiny staves, unless you've got enormous thumbs  So the more rings you remove, the more width you lose, and the less wood you will have to shape a handle with.

My first notion with osage is always to remove the bark and sapwood and seal the back. But in this case, since they are so small, I would remove the bark, and then do some measuring and planning first. If I felt I needed to, I may elect to leave the sapwood on them. If I could make the bow I wanted without the sapwood, I'd remove it.

How long ago was this osage cut?

[Pappy]

I would remove the sap wood and go for the first ring I could hit, you can always build the handle area up if need be. Be sure and seal good after you get to the ring, if it takes you a while and you plan on leaving it before you get it to a ring, seal, sometimes they check overnight when green.  How wide are the staves ?
 Pappy

[bjrogg]

Thanks Clint, that was a really good post you routed me to. I read the whole post and decided to bump it to the top again so others could see it to. Going to have to show that one to my cousin. After looking at your post, I'd say this was either second growth or younger wood but the bark was quite straight and looked good to me. I did tell my cousin beforehand to look for bark without twist. When you harvest bigger diameter logs and do belly splits do you split right away or let dry some 1st, I'm guessing right away.
Thanks Mike, I think I've got enough wood to take off sap wood. So far I left it on thought it might help keep back from checking lol. Just shows how much I know about Osage. I did seal it back and then ends.
Thanks dances with squirrels, afraid it's just a small stave although this was the smallest of the 4 that's why I experimented taking bark of it first. No big thumbs here. I think it was probably cut a couple weeks ago. It seems like my cousin know somebody who knows somebody everywhere and he always follows up and gets stuff done.
Thanks Pappy, I'm thinking all of these staves should be wide enough without the sapwood. This is the narrowest one but all split really nice without tearing I think they should come out around 2 1/4  to 3" without sapwood if I can manage to not screw up chasing ring.
Thanks all
Bjrogg

[osage outlaw]

BJ, When I cut a big log I will quarter it up as soon as I can.  With my work schedule it's usually a few days until I can work it down into staves and start taking off belly splits. Just make sure to seal the backs of the belly splits. 

Removing the twist out of your staves won't be hard.  Once you get it worked down to floor tiller clamp the handle of the bow in a vise.  I leave the tips wide and put a C clamp them.  Some guys use a wrench.  I hang some weights off the handle of the clamp pulling the tip in the direction I want it to go.  I start heating the limb and when it gets to the right temperature it will untwist slowly.  Remember to go a little past straight to allow for some spring back when you take the weight off.  Make sure you don't let the limb bend down from the weight.  I prop an old golf club shaft under it to keep it from sagging.  The next time I do this I'll take some pictures and post them.