For fur on stuff I've never had any trouble with hair slipping after I found a method that works for me. Just flesh and dry like I'm going to sell them. After they are dry I will thin the thick spots on hides like beaver and raccon with and angle grinder with a sanding disk. This thins the thick spot REAL quick and evenly if done correctly. Then I'll use some acetone and wipe down the hide to degrease a bit more. After that I remoisturize the hide by wrapping it with a damp towel for a few hours. This will allow the emulsified oils to more redily soak into the skin. Once the hide is fully damp again I will take my slurry of brains, egg yokes, emulsified veggy oil, or whatever emulsified oil I feel like using and slathe rot all over the skin and fold the skin in on itself and let it soak in over night. Come morning I scrape off the excess junk on the skin and start the breaking process. Even though working the hide over a board, rope, or cable doesn't do anything to soften the hide, it does help to dry the hair out by fluffing it up and giving some friction heat. It also does help to dry the leather a little faster. By the time the leather is dry and broke the hair will be dry and fluffy. Even with the hair being wet for about a day I don't have any trouble with the fur slipping and everything by muskrats usually end up as soft as I like after one oiling. Muskrats usually take me two oilings since the first go around usually just breaks down the saddle and it comes off. So I oil and break again to get it good and soft.
I hope that explains my fur on process well enough. Right now I've got a coyote for myself and a badger for a guy to do when I get some time freed up.
Kyle
Kyle