Curing time for Hickory?

[GreenwoodBlacksmith]

This weekend I felled a Shagbark hickory (Carya ovata)that is about 8" DBH.  I plan on splitting it this evening into manageable staves and I am curious how long I may have to wait until I can start working on a bow.  I know there are a lot of variables such as relative humidity, temp, etc.  I just am curious if the answer is "years" or "months" (and any tricks to speed the process along). Thanks!

[Eric Garza]

You'll get all sorts of answers to this question. If you leave it as full-dimension staves, I'd say at least a few years. A rule of thumb I've heard tossed around that seems to work well for dense woods like hickory is one year for each inch of thickness in the thinnest dimension. If you reduce the staves to rough bow dimensions, you can speed this up somewhat but I'd still say it would be ideal to wait a couple years before you use the wood. Wood will reach equilibrium with its surroundings and be 'dry' before it will be seasoned. Seasoned wood is better to use for bows, if you have the option, though plenty of effective bows are made from wood that is merely dry.

[osage outlaw]

I agree with Eric.  Hickory is able to be force dried better than some other trees.  A car in the sunlight or a hot box will help it lose moisture quickly.

[Chris3kilo]

I do not have any experience with hickory but I saw a method that worked well for me with hazel a couple of times.
I make the stave to a rough bow, somewhat bendable limbs but no tillering or excessive bending yet.
Then I clamp it and tie it down thightly to a 1x3 back of the bow on the 1" side. I read that you could also add some reflex while doing this by placing a piece of wood under the handle part.
Then I seal the ends and places the pith might show, if made from a sapling.
I then steam each half of the bow for 40 minuttes to make the bow hold its shape.
After steaming I leave it to dry in my livingroom for 2 weeks (requires an understanding girlfriend/wife).
After 2 weeks the resistance in the wood is, according to my ohmmeter, low enough to be tillered.

[GreenwoodBlacksmith]

You'll get all sorts of answers to this question. If you leave it as full-dimension staves, I'd say at least a few years. A rule of thumb I've heard tossed around that seems to work well for dense woods like hickory is one year for each inch of thickness in the thinnest dimension. If you reduce the staves to rough bow dimensions, you can speed this up somewhat but I'd still say it would be ideal to wait a couple years before you use the wood. Wood will reach equilibrium with its surroundings and be 'dry' before it will be seasoned. Seasoned wood is better to use for bows, if you have the option, though plenty of effective bows are made from wood that is merely dry.

I was worried that was the case.  I wish I had started cutting hickories 3 years ago BEFORE I became interested in bow building!  I suppose I should start felling elms and hickories with abandon now in the hopes that I will still have the bug in three more years.                                                                                                                                                                             

[GreenwoodBlacksmith]

I do not have any experience with hickory but I saw a method that worked well for me with hazel a couple of times.
I make the stave to a rough bow, somewhat bendable limbs but no tillering or excessive bending yet.
Then I clamp it and tie it down thightly to a 1x3 back of the bow on the 1" side. I read that you could also add some reflex while doing this by placing a piece of wood under the handle part.
Then I seal the ends and places the pith might show, if made from a sapling.
I then steam each half of the bow for 40 minuttes to make the bow hold its shape.
After steaming I leave it to dry in my livingroom for 2 weeks (requires an understanding girlfriend/wife).
After 2 weeks the resistance in the wood is, according to my ohmmeter, low enough to be tillered.

I cut a 2" HHB at the same time as the hickory.  I will try this method with that one to start.  Thanks for the inspiration!

[PatM]

You can speed dry wood and make a very serviceable bow while you wait for the other stuff to season.
 

[GreenwoodBlacksmith]

You can speed dry wood and make a very serviceable bow while you wait for the other stuff to season.

Using a hot box?

[gutpile]

hickory will not get below 15 no matter how long you let it dry outside...it has to be done inside a condition controlled or a hot box...you need to get it below or at 12 for it to be screaming bow wood...which it is...I rough  out and put in closet with heat vent..usually 6 months and she good to go..longer even better... anytime you work it,  it goes back in closet or box till finished and sealed..great bow wood IMO..gut

[GreenwoodBlacksmith]

hickory will not get below 15 no matter how long you let it dry outside...it has to be done inside a condition controlled or a hot box...you need to get it below or at 12 for it to be screaming bow wood...which it is...I rough  out and put in closet with heat vent..usually 6 months and she good to go..longer even better... anytime you work it,  it goes back in closet or box till finished and sealed..great bow wood IMO..gut

Feeling more hopeful. Thanks!

[DC]

I think the only way through this is to cut a half dozen or more staves. Speed dry 1 or 2 in whatever way you can for as long as you can stand it and start makin'. Just accept the fact that the first bows will be a little sub standard. They will still shoot fine. Be happy in the fact that your future bows will have better wood to start with.

[Stick Bender]

I made a hickory bow last winter in 2 months from stump to bow including sinew it ended up being one of my best shooting bows  I ended up force drying the ruffed out stave by sealing the back and ends with shellac & hanging it from the sealing above a heater vent , these days I'm not as much in a hurry I weigh the ruffed out stave with a digital food scale  & keep weighing it tell it quits losing weight & then I do a little more force drying with a electric blanket , but if your in a big hurry you could ruff it out &  put it on the wall inside @ 50% RH for a month it probably would be good to go for a serviceable bow That's what was recommended to me when I asked the same question you did.

[upstatenybowyer]

One of my favorite "tools" is the baby scale I bought 5 years ago when my daughter was born- it reads in lbs. and oz. I think it was like 20$. I like to floor tiller, then weigh the bow-to-be once a week until it stops loosing weight (equilibrium mc). I've done this with all kinds of wood including hickory and it's always worked out.

Not sure where you live, but I'd store it indoors in a climate controlled setting.

[BowEd]

What part of Iowa you from Greenwood?

[GreenwoodBlacksmith]

One of my favorite "tools" is the baby scale I bought 5 years ago when my daughter was born- it reads in lbs. and oz. I think it was like 20$. I like to floor tiller, then weigh the bow-to-be once a week until it stops loosing weight (equilibrium mc). I've done this with all kinds of wood including hickory and it's always worked out.

Not sure where you live, but I'd store it indoors in a climate controlled setting.

I live in NE Iowa.  I just read the same suggestion in TBB Vol. II from the Stone Age Bow chapter by Tim Baker. I am going to start on a bow this weekend!