D/R ERC

[bubby]

That's much better Ed. Good job straightening the tiller out

[BowEd]

The handle is a 10" glue on.2.75" fades/4.5" handle.Feathered in decently I think.I know could get a deer with this bow yet if I wanted to.
My wariness of it working too close the fades and cracking cost me taking too much wood/reflex/and poundage taking too much from the outer third because of that hinge then to get it bending good on the inner third.Could of and should of done that differently.

[GB]

Nice save, Ed.  You've got it bending nicely.  Wonder if you could steam the tips, bend 'em, and glue on a thin underlay?  I did that once to a bow that I had glued cherry bark backing to.  But that was with TB3.  Somebody on here says you can do it with Smooth On, too, and it doesn't weaken the glue.  I usually use Unibond when I glue a wood backer on and am afraid to try it with that stuff, though.

[mullet]

That looks a lot better, Ed.

[BowEd]

Thanks for the idea GB.Curious thought though.I just don't know if smooth on will handle it.The steaming that is.I'd want to do an experiment first.With a couple laminations adding up to 1/2" thick.Steaming and then bending them on the form.The overlays are on with smooth on too.

[BowEd]

Thanks bub and mullet.Better late than never heh....lol,or into pieces on the floor.I did forget my hard hat though.Maybe that's what screwed me up....lol.Just kidding.

[ajooter]

Nice comeback Ed.  I love the color of thathe wood.

[GB]

Yeah, a test is a really good idea.  I want to do that with Unibond one of these days.  I've wished that I would have flipped the tips more on a couple of bows after seeing how they looked coming off the form.

[bjrogg]

You got that one looking much better Ed. Pulled the rabbit out of the hat on that one.
Bjrogg

[Aaron H]

That looks much better Ed, nice save

[BowEd]

Thanks Aaron & bjrogg.
I don't know how [or I guess I do] I get myself into these experimental fixes but I'm seriously thinking about raising the draw weight on this 68" bow.I've just steamed and bent an experimental tip of lamination 1.5" that was gluued together with smooth on epoxy.After cooling down it seems fine and held the bend nicely.
I have 2 options or both together the the way I see it to raise this draw weight.The bow sits about flat at rest right now so at 68" I should be ok especially at 2" wide.Tiller should'nt change very little at all.
1.Doing the math to get a 50# bow I'll need to cut off 1.75" from each tip.To raise it from 39#'s to 50#'s.My horn tip overlays are 1.75" long anyways.That would give me a 64.5"TTT bow/63" NTN.
2.I could steam bend 1.5" set back onto each tip.The last 4 to 5 inches.Which I don't have a mathematic formula for as to how much that will raise the draw weight.Earlier tension for sure but unknowing as to final draw weight number.The 1.5" bends will not quite touch the belly of the tips at brace so it really could'nt be called a recurve.
3.Do both 1 and 2.Number 1 first then number 2 next and glue my overlays back on.

[bradsmith2010]

Ed,, I hate to over simplify ,,, but bottom line is ,, when you kill a deer with that thing, all will be perfect,,

[BowEd]

Yes yes yes I know but but but it's the battle against string follow and for the foreseen expected poundage that's at stake here.I have a hard time leaving well enough alone....lol.
More figures.....Expected mass weight of this bow is right within reasonable weight also to handle this.Added mass for 2" of set back minus the 10% reduction in mass because it's a laminated bow.

[Marc St Louis]

Very nice.  I like the limb profile

[BowEd]

Thanks Marc...I can't really call it a pyramid or a parallel.It's in between.Works for me.Think there was a thread about that a while ago.