Worst Glue Line EVER

[arachnid]

Hi.

I`m working on a white oak backed ipe takedown and I`ve made the mistake of not using
an inner tube when I glued it up. I used only spring clamps- bad idea. Seems like all the pressure
was on the center and non on the sides.


and this is the glue line I got (I used Elmer`s carpenters glue) :


There are small gaps all along the limb, from both sides.
Is there anything that can be done to fix it?

[Pat B]

Fill the gaps with super glue. I had the same thing happen years ago and that fixed the one I was working on.
 Second option is to remove the back, clean up both glue surfaces and re-glue it. The TB glue will release at 150 degs. Start at one end, heat an area and use a chisel or screwdriver and get between the layers separating them then work down the to the handle, heating as you go and start on the other end doing the same

[arachnid]

What type of super glue did you use Pat? Liqued or gel?

[RBLusthaus]

That sucks.   For the next time, you can use spring clamps, just place 2 clamps at each location, one on either side of the bow,  with both pressing on a spot closer to the edge than in the center.  I also make the lower lamination a little wider than the upper, and when the clamps press, you can see the ooze out all along the. edge.  The puddles at the edges that sit on the wider lower lamination fill  in those gaps and then you sand back to the line after glue has dried.  Good luck.  Russ

[Marc St Louis]

Super glue and PVA glues don't like each other

[Parnell]

I don't like clamps for that type of stuff and I think inner tubes are a pain.  I've had the best results wrapping it or tying with cheap cotton twine.  Its soft enough to not bite into the wood and provides really precise pressure.  Not worth it to use that cheap glue, spend a few bucks and get Titebond.  Better luck...

[Pat B]

Marc, I did this with the super glue a couple of times years ago with no problem. Once I found out about delaminating with heat that is the way I went.
 Arcahnid, I use cheap super glue. I've tried different brands and most work just fine. Gorilla super glue is crap as far as I am concerned. I've bought it a few times and in every occasion the glue solidified before I used it up, in a few of those cases before I removed it from the original package. Lock-tite seems to work well though.
 I have found that bicycle inner tubes work best for me for backing glue ups. I get the tubes from bicycle shops for free, cut the valve section out and cut the tube in half lengthwise with a band or two wrapped around each limb. Once wrapped you can put it in the form and clamp it in place. I usually add spring or screw clamps at the fades and at the tips for extra support.  I don't think you can wrap the tubes too tight to cause a dry glue line.

[JoJoDapyro]

A bit of first hand knowledge. Don't try and rub the glue into the line with bare fingers. Bamboo slivers hurt, and they really smart when they get super glued into your finger!

[PEARL DRUMS]

The unknown is the part that will get you. It may look like the edges needs filled. But how do you know there isn't a void across the back? Id scrap it and start over. But what do I know

[BowEd]

Inner tube wrap and smooth on will fix your worries next time.TT3 takes smooth exact fitting surfaces for a good bond.It sets up rather quickly too.Smooth on takes roughened up surfaces of at least 36 grit paper[what I use].It gives you more time to adjust things.Like 2 hours but I would get it wrapped or clamped properly in 1 hour if I were you.Then onto your form.A bit more expensive than elmers but you'll get a proper long term bond then though too.
One other thing about smooth on is if you warm the wood and smooth on before sizing I think it's a better bond.

[BowEd]

OOOh.... one thing if you use the innertube wrap method on 2" wide bows I'd lay a 5/16" rope down the center of the limbs and wrap around that too. Putting good pressure on the center of those wide limbs then too. instead of mostly on the edges.

[arachnid]

Thanks for all tge great tips. But, unfortunately, I can't get titebond nor smooth-on (I actually ordered smooth on from Bearpaw Germany through an archery club here, but It'll take some time 'till the shipment will be underway). So, Elmer's is what I have (and it's a good glue. Never failed me. It's just my mistake of not puting enough pressure).

I think I'll try to delaminate it. Just neet to be careful, last time I did it I ripped the backing to pieces.

Does anyone know this method for dissolving glue? It's said that using a towel soaked in viniger should dissolve the glue.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/building-a-temporary-support-while-your-wood-glue-dries

[bubby]

I agree with pearl and beadman, smooth on is cheap in the long run as it doesn't take much for a glue up, has plenty of work time even out here when it's110 or up. Like patb said use a heat gun and a stout putty knife and take it apart clean it up and get a redo. I also like to prebend recurves before glue up

[Pat B]

Contact the Elmer's tech support and ask them about degrading the glue with heat. That's how I found out about TB glue.
 Another option for glue is Weldwood Plastic Resin. It is a powder that is activated with water. It is cheap and the first time I heard of it was from a PA member from Italy(Alby for those that remember him). Plastic Resin is very similar to Urac or Unibond. It is also a urea type glue.

[Marc St Louis]

Marc, I did this with the super glue a couple of times years ago with no problem. Once I found out about delaminating with heat that is the way I went.

What superglue does Pat is that it works on PVA glues by softening them.  The glue up might hold together after but it is weaker