Pope's Finish

[jaxenro]

Recently I downloaded some interesting books from Project Gutenberg including Hunting with the Bow and Arrow, by Saxton Pope, The Theory and Practice of Archery, by Horace A Ford, and Archery Rules, by Charles F. A. Hinrichs.

For finishing bows Pope recommends what looks like a version of a French Polish using wiped on shellac but instead of mineral oil he uses boiled linseed oil. The purpose of the mineral oil in the French polishing process is mostly as a lubricant and to keep the current layer from dissolving the previous ones. Linseed oil however is a finish in and of itself and it seems would add an additional level of protection to the finish. He finishes by rubbing it down with wax and recommends applying a little linseed occasionally, especially when hunting and out in inclement weather he recommends applying some daily

Has anyone ever tried this finish?

[Pappy]

I have used boiled Linseed oil several times, it just takes a good long while for it to dry, I use Tru oil most of the time now and I think it is Linseed oil with some driers added.
 Pappy

[PatM]

French polish is more the process than the actual ingredients used. It's generally too labor intensive for most and not as durable.

[Stonedog]

TruOil is linseed oil with driers indeed.

I use either TruOil or Spar Urethane.

I also rub it down with furniture paste from time to time!

[jaxenro]

French polish is more the process than the actual ingredients used. It's generally too labor intensive for most and not as durable.

Yes and no. Traditional French Polish always uses shellac, usually pumice, and oil, but it is also the process of wiping it on using a pad charged with shellac. I think Pope's addition of boiled linseed oil for the mineral or olive oil increases the durability

[PatM]

That's what I was saying. 

[Hamish]

If your going down the Pope method, experiment on some scrap first, not the bow.

I have found plain old shellac(or blonde depending upon the colour of the wood) dissolved in alcohol, to be quick, effective, and easy to apply. For the first couple of coats I put on are pretty thick.  Steel wool between coats. Further coats are from a more diluted solution, it helps them blend into the subsequent coats and helps to stop runs from happening.

Shellac was found by Dean Torges to be one of the most effective finishes for keeping out moisture(more so than modern varnishes).
As to durability, it is pretty good, better than many give it credit for. It can easily be touched up.

[loon]

I'm going with button lac for my hornbow, but its compatibility with other finishes is maybe not so good due to the wax. But it may be more flexible than dewaxed shellac.

Hm, interesting. I may try raw pure tung oil instead of BLO...

I think Tru Oil doesn't only have driers or spirit varnish added, doesn't it also have some kind of varnish, either urethane, resin or... something? It seems a lot more permanent. And not alcohol soluble, unlike shellac?

[mikekeswick]

I'm going with button lac for my hornbow, but its compatibility with other finishes is maybe not so good due to the wax. But it may be more flexible than dewaxed shellac.

Hm, interesting. I may try raw pure tung oil instead of BLO...

I think Tru Oil doesn't only have driers or spirit varnish added, doesn't it also have some kind of varnish, either urethane, resin or... something? It seems a lot more permanent. And not alcohol soluble, unlike shellac?

yup Truoil is not just linseed with driers added. 
I've found shellac to be just as durable as Truoil. I don't really know what the hype is about Truoil...it is ok but there are many better finishes out there. I don't find it very tough. After a few years the bows start looking a bit battered.

[Pappy]

I like my bows to look a bit battered Mike. 
 Pappy

[paco664]

I like my bows to look a bit battered Mike. 
 Pappy

tempura bows.... lightly battered....