Dry heat correction on hickory stave

[dane lund]

OK, I'm at rough floor tiller and thought I would attempt adding a little reflex and line up the string.
I just finished the second heat on one limb, but it just seems to keep bouncing back.
Should I be using steam instead of dry heat?
Never used steam. 
Thanks in advance for the help

[Pat B]

Sometimes dry heat works with hickory but generally steam is a better option.

[BowEd]

Don't really know how far your trying to do what....Pics can help.Hickory generally is a more stubborn wood to bend dry heat wise than osage.If I had to quess I think you did'nt get it hot enough.Have you bent much wood with dry heat before?

[dane lund]

Headman,  the only wood I've used on the caul is Osage.  It seems to bend pretty easy.
I'm only adding about 2" of reflex, I've got to bring the tips (both) over by 1 ½" to 2, to line up,the string.
The bow is a 68" pyramid, right now about ½" thick.

[SLIMBOB]

This may be separate from your question, but if you need to bring the tips in line, bend it at the handle.  Sounds as though you are trying to line it up bending the limb tips?? I would try dry heat first but steam may be needed.

[BowEd]

Yes what SLIMBOB said is true.A good thick table/two 2 by 4 wood chucks on either side of the handle at the fades with the bow on it's side/1 big  c clamp.Rough out handle close to dimensions.Steam that and fades at the same time over at least a 10" pot for an hour.Clamp her a little past what you want for spring back.Then after that is cooled off and dry you can easily put 2" of reflex onto a hickory bow on your caul.I would clamp the bows' handle to your caul too to prevent it from reverting back to before steamed in change alignment.

[bushboy]

Marc's localized steam method is the way to go IMHO.dry heat only will most times cause Tention fractures on the belly side if ever so small.clamp the stave down,place a wet cotton rag,tin foil and gentle pressure until it starts to give.takes between 5 to 10 minutes.clamp in place after bending and allow to cool,then heat temper it in place.couple of shots of bending yellowheart

[bushboy]

To add using a heat gun, concentrate the heat on the apex of the bend,and heavy heating on the recurve to lock it in!

[dane lund]

So I heat it through the foil and rag? It seems like bending the handle would make it less complicated.
I guess I align the tips first, then the reflex?

[Drewster]

For aligning the tips, I would do as a couple others have mentioned and bend it at the handle by steaming.  Rough shape and thin the handle as much as you're comfortable with to make it easier to bend.  Steam at least an hour to 1 1/4 hr.  Have your clamps and caul all set up and work fast.  You will need to clamp it in a minute or less.  I would also leave it clamped for several days or perhaps even a week.  Hickory does like to return to it's original shape, so it's needs more time to dry and set than most other woods.

If you're going to heat treat the belly, I would add my reflex during that process.  Heat treating really helps hickory too.  You can "kill two birds with one stone" by heat treating in this situation.  Good luck and keep us posted.

[Eric Krewson]

Good info; I have three primo hickory bow blanks that are slightly doglegged in the handle section, repeated dry heat corrections only last a few days, at which point the blanks go back to their former condition. I will try localized steam.

[bushboy]

The way. I do tip alignment only takes about 10 minutes.my experience is with elm,maybe hickory is a bit more stubborn?i could do a mock up in. Photo's if your interested?

[dane lund]

Well, the bend went well,  BUT, braced the bow, and final tillering, it cracked at a knot.
Back to the drawing board!

[BowEd]

That sucks!!!Good luck on next one though.

[dane lund]

Bush boy,

I'd love to see it for the next one!
Thanks for everyone's help!