Let's Build a Trilam! (Finished pics on page 12... Refinished pics on page 13)

[ty_in_ND]

Maybe to anchor the rubber strap?

Bingo!

edit: Actually, I did have those clamps near the tips for another reason: I didn't heat bend the core or bamboo that time, so I added the clamp there in order to ensure an even glue line in the curve.

[ty_in_ND]

Not too bad where it is at but I would move mine closer to the tip. I feel whatever design you are after should be represented in the braced profile. If the bend is too close to the center you might end up tillering it out and have a D bow profile on the braced bow. You will loose the advantage of low string angles in the outer limbs which really boosts the power and tames down the bow. Tillering is also much easier with the clamp moved further out.

After looking at that picture when I posted, I was thinking maybe moving the mid posts 1-2 inches towards the tips.  I'll get that dry run posted with that in mind.

[jeffp51]

I think Badger's point makes the most sense.  It seems moving the reflex out toward the tips would leave a better looking, easier tillered set up.  The first one you tried did sort of end up looking like a D-bow by the time you were reaching full draw. 

Does anyone know what would happen if he raised the central brace a little--effectively increasing the induced deflex?  I don't know if that would be helpful or hurtful to the process

[ty_in_ND]

I was thinking the same thing about that 1st bow, Jeff. I thought it was because I took too much off of the outer limbs and not enough off the inners after I started working on it when it was at full brace (the bow was a little stiff out of the fades). Before I started scraping on it when it was at full brace, it looked like a r/d bow.

But, before I post dry run picks, I did notice this:




It's not much, but the tips are not the same. The tip with more flip will be the bottom limb. Should I address this before proceeding or is the difference minor enough that it won't give me problems down the road? I'd rather take the extra time now to get this squared away.

[jeffp51]

I think if you are gluing it up in a form anyway, it likely won't make much difference.  But if you are concerned about it, you can re-bend it of course.  You are the one with the wood in your hand, so you will be able to see best.

[ty_in_ND]

Sorry for the delay in this build, as I've been working through car troubles (someday I'll have a workshop at home, but for now, my workplace will do), but here is where I'm at.

I did try reheating the tip I was concerned about. Maybe I didn't need to, but I learned something neat from it. Reheating the tip caused the curve to undo itself. By the time I got it back on the form it lost about half of its bend. Besides that, I left it on the form overnight and it did get closer to the other tip. It looks to be about 1/16" why of the other one. (no pic, sorry  )

But, here's where I do have a picture! I was able to toss the lams on the bending form. Here's how it looks with the middle posts right in the middle of the working part of the limb:



If that looks good, I'll get her glued up. If not, I'll adjust, take another picture, and go from there.

[bubby]

I like how that looks personally

[DC]

Yeah, that looks better. Appearance wise. Still unsure whether is really is better

[ty_in_ND]

Yeah, that looks better. Appearance wise. Still unsure whether is really is better

Well, we'll find out as I get to tillering this puppy! 

[Aaron H]

That has an excellent profile now, you are well on your way

[jeffp51]

I think I would be inclined to bring up the middle brace (like maybe half an inch or so), to increase the deflex some--mostly because once you have it off the form it will relax about to where you have it now,  which does look super sexy. You would have to feel how stressed the wood is when you do it though, which is impossible to tell with a picture. I like where you have the reflex braces set up with the majority of the curve toward the tips.  If you decide to leave it where it is and glue it up, I am sure that will work too.  You make the call.

In the end, I know you value my opinion because the bow will come to me, so I am sharing what I think.  But don't take what I say as an imperative, because I can't feel the wood and I have never made a bow like this.  Good luck.

Jeff

[ty_in_ND]

Well, here's a good reason to do these dry runs: I forgot the center post needs to be in the middle of the handle section, not the middle of the bow (my bottom limb is an inch shorter than the top).  If I had glued it up that way, it would have made adding the handle interesting to say the least!  Here's how the bow looks with the posts in the right spots:



As per Jeff's request, here's how it looks with an additional piece of 5/8" thick wood on top of the center post:



It definitely adds more r/d to the bow.

[jeffp51]

I would to hear a more experienced opinion, but I think the top profile is what you want to end up with, and probably the bottom form is what is likely needed to achieve it.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Looks pretty good right there Ty. 

[ty_in_ND]

I would to hear a more experienced opinion, but I think the top profile is what you want to end up with, and probably the bottom form is what is likely needed to achieve it.

Well, I am game for gluing it up with the shim on the center post.  I'll give a little bit of time for others to weigh in, but I do want to get this puppy glued up this afternoon.  If others give a compelling reason to go with the milder r/d, then l will defer to their advise. At the end of the day I want a bow out of this and not another "learning experience".