Author Topic: Adams Spiner and ? (Read 3879 times)

mtbow · « **on:** September 10, 2016, 12:06:49 am »

Whoooo, first post ever here. Not new to archery, just getting older and recently retired and have been away from archery for about 35 years. Am shooting my diff. longbows now and building some Port Orford arrows from the shafts I ordered about 35 years ago also. So here is my question.

In a perfect archery world, theoretically everything perfect:

bow is 47 lbs at my draw of 25",
an arrow shaft that on the Adams Spiner is 50lbs at 28", per spiner AMO specs,

So here is the question, what spine should the bow be shooting, remembering this is a perfect archery world,

for my 25" draw? I just need a little tutoring here folks.

BTW, the bow is shooting arrows spined at 50lbs pretty darn good. Oh, I'm cutting shafts at 27" and shooting field points.

Thanks,
Marlowe

mtbow · « **Reply #1 on:** September 10, 2016, 01:23:23 am »

Hey I downloaded a AMO.pdf standard and I do believe I figured it out.

Thanks
Marlowe

loon · « **Reply #2 on:** September 10, 2016, 01:57:14 am »

i wanna build something like this one because i don't wanna bother with trying to make a dial, and don't wanna spend nearly $200. already have a cheap plastic vernier caliper. now how would I make a 2lbs weight without melting lead...

problem is most of my arrows are gonna be between 29" and 34" long, worried 26" would be inaccurate for a possibly tapering bamboo

http://poorfolkbows.com/spine3.htm

DC · « **Reply #3 on:** September 10, 2016, 11:45:05 am »

I put the nock on one of the posts when I'm spining tapered shafts. So I'm reading the lowest spine.
For the weight I found a chunk of steel that was just a little less than 2#. Glued the hook in a wrapped a bit of solder on it to get it exactly two pounds. I made my spiner from stuff I had laying around. Cost nothing. There is nothing complex about them. They are just slightly more complicated than an anvil.

JoJoDapyro · « **Reply #4 on:** September 12, 2016, 10:03:46 am »

Mine is a $9 digital caliper, a spring clamp, and a scrap 2X4 with dowels glued in at the correct distance. Also an oldschool soldering iron that just happens to weigh 2 pounds.

mtbow · « **Reply #5 on:** September 13, 2016, 12:59:07 pm »

JoJo,

Post a pic of your spiner. Images are good for all.

Marlowe

JoJoDapyro · « **Reply #6 on:** September 13, 2016, 01:31:55 pm »

Quote from: mtbow on September 13, 2016, 12:59:07 pm

JoJo,

Post a pic of your spiner. Images are good for all.

Marlowe

I'll take one when I get home tonight. It is really super simple.

loon · « **Reply #7 on:** September 14, 2016, 05:51:30 am »

sorry, hijacked the OP's thread, even with the reply right after..

Quote

So here is the question, what spine should the bow be shooting, remembering this is a perfect archery world, for my 25" draw? I just need a little tutoring here folks.

that would be around,.. subtract 15# from the spine, whatever it corresponds w/ inches deflection in AMO? so spine should be 47-15=32#, maybe a bit more to account for the extra length. about 0.870 - 0.880 deflection??

should bare shaft tune too... different point weights? or could start stiff and shave it down until it's bendy enough

some other chart says the deflection should be around 0.670", and that seems pretty conservative as well. may want to go stiffer.. i think we need charts in a sticky thread or something.

may have to actually test many different spines, starting stiff. then when you find one that shoots well just make more arrows with that spine..?

Pappy · « **Reply #8 on:** September 14, 2016, 09:51:51 am »

loon has it right if you are cutting the arrows to 25, maybe a little more if the bow you are shooting in center shot or close to it. If you are cutting to 27 then 45/50 should work with a 125 point, 40/45 if the bow is not center or close to center shot, add more point weight if it is a little stiff.

I always bare shaft
them just the same to be sure. Looking forward to more post and welcome to PA.

Pappy

loon · « **Reply #9 on:** September 14, 2016, 03:01:33 pm »

So the arrow length matters more than the draw length?..

thanks

Pappy · « **Reply #10 on:** September 14, 2016, 03:12:39 pm »

Yes . Pappy

JoJoDapyro · « **Reply #11 on:** September 15, 2016, 09:55:06 am »

Here are a few photos of my spine tester. A 2X4, a 1X2, 2, 3/8 dowels, a spring clamp, a 2 pound weight and a digital caliper.

mtbow · « **Reply #12 on:** September 15, 2016, 10:06:26 am »

JoJo thanks for sharing the pics. Gotta love DIY and attitude of finding methods that work and get the same results.

Marlowe

JoJoDapyro · « **Reply #13 on:** September 15, 2016, 10:11:23 am »

Quote from: mtbow on September 15, 2016, 10:06:26 am

JoJo thanks for sharing the pics. Gotta love DIY and attitude of finding methods that work and get the same results.

Marlowe

It took some thinking on how to make it work, but it does what I need it to.

That is a solid cedar arrow shaft I made, It is 3/8 and as you can see, spines out pretty high. .351

Primitive Archer