Spining arrows

[Danzn Bar]

On cane the leaves are opposite each other as you move down the shaft.  Most of the time the weak side is the side the leaf (scar) is on.  Therefore, putting the leaf scar top and bottom the stiff side is against the bow.
DBar

[loon]

Thanks, it all makes sense now, though, like Knoll, I still don't understand why the stiff side rather than the one matching the spine better.. the reason may be too complicated

[Danzn Bar]

Ed .....to try and answer your first question...
I have spine tested a lot of shafts ...mostly cane and boo and have found the difference between the weak and strong side not to very a whole lot in poundage.  I have also found that the best shooting arrows have hardly no difference.  Therefore, I would say it most likely would not shoot good and kick coming off the bow no matter what you do. 
Again this is just my experience.
DBar

[bjrogg]

I don't know why, but I believe it. Every time I bare shaft test they always shoot better stiff side to the bow. I always shoot them bare shaft before I fletch to see which way they shoot best. Sometimes they will fly perfect one side, flip them over and they fly sideways
Bjrogg

[Danzn Bar]

I'm a firm believer in bare shaft tuning.....
DBar

[mullet]

If you go to Easton's sight I watched a video of aluminum arrows released in slow motion. It looked like when the fingers rolled off the string towards the center of the bow, the arrow would bend a little. As it recovered the weak side would bend an unbelievable amount around the handle and then wobble and slowly recover leaving the bow.

 I think the weak side away from the handle allows it to bend around the handle easier. Thus, why you see stiff and weak arrows with the knock leaning to the right or the left in the target.

[mullet]

I've also noticed that Tonkin shafts there is little difference with the clean, ground down, carmelized shafts selling on ebay. But the raw shafts have a stiff side. Also, cane does vary a lot.

And, I don't have a spine tester but do know how to find the stiff side on cane and bamboo.

[Danzn Bar]

Eddie,
Do you roll the shaft as it's bending to find the stiff side?

[Danzn Bar]

I've also noticed that Tonkin shafts there is little difference with the clean, ground down, carmelized shafts selling on ebay. But the raw shafts have a stiff side. Also, cane does vary a lot.

And, I don't have a spine tester but do know how to find the stiff side on cane and bamboo.

I agree with you on the Tonkin bought online....that's why they tend to shoot better.   River cane does vary more.

[BowEd]

Thanks for all the comments and insight fellas.It was a serious question.I too have spine tested many shafts.I'll see what happens bare shaft tuning these hazel shafts.I had 8 dried and ready to make.Made first one for OO for an arrow trade swap and honestly it shot as good without feathers as it did with feathers.Like a dart.Stuck straight into target at 15 yards right where I was looking.Tilted up slightly.Perfect.I am impressed about hazel.Shafts like that I usually only will put minimal amount of feathers on for myself. 4 to 4.5 inch feathers.Lots of dogwoods have done this for me too though.
What mullet said about Easton's video makes sense and what Danznbar said about the balanced spine on both sides of shaft I agree with too.What Pat said I realized about the feathered rift pointing towards me on the hand for safety's sake and would of liked to have met Art too.
One shaft I took too much wood off and it came in too weak.Another just plain broke straightening it.The 5 I have left came in right in spine and mass weight.I'll know what to do once this wait gets over on this bow and know it's finished poundage.
The side view straight bow with 2.5" flipped tips was tillered to 20" and estimated then @ 45#'s @ 28".If it holds half the extra induced reflex and rests at 4" the poundage will go up a bit.An extra 1.5" reflex.How much I don't know yet.I could have very well jumped the gun making these shafts before the bow was finished.Oh well it's fun playing the matching game anyway.I'll cut some more otherwise and start over....ha ha.

[Knoll]

If you go to Easton's sight I watched a video of aluminum arrows released in slow motion. It looked like when the fingers rolled off the string towards the center of the bow, the arrow would bend a little. As it recovered the weak side would bend an unbelievable amount around the handle and then wobble and slowly recover leaving the bow.

 I think the weak side away from the handle allows it to bend around the handle easier. Thus, why you see stiff and weak arrows with the knock leaning to the right or the left in the target.

Thanks.

[loon]

If you go to Easton's sight I watched a video of aluminum arrows released in slow motion. It looked like when the fingers rolled off the string towards the center of the bow, the arrow would bend a little. As it recovered the weak side would bend an unbelievable amount around the handle and then wobble and slowly recover leaving the bow.

 I think the weak side away from the handle allows it to bend around the handle easier. Thus, why you see stiff and weak arrows with the knock leaning to the right or the left in the target.

I don't get it... do you have a link or remember the title?

[Lumberman]

Glad to read this, I had wondered the same thing, I'd also agree that the best shafts for me have been the ones with a difference of only a few pounds from one side to the other. I have stopped trying to bare shaft and then tune each arrow; I found a thick ess that works best for my hickory bow and then churn out quite a few shafts, probably 8 out of 12 are already good with a few being to strong which I save for when I manage to make a 50# plus bow

[BowEd]

Yes making dogwoods most times is like that too.They all don't make it....lol.

[Lumberman]

I still haven't tried a shoot shaft, do you a favorite for shoot shafts? I know we are looking at the same terrain, took your advice on the walnut and it has been my favorite so far possibly my best option for what's available to me in the sawmill