Is this fixable?

[Justin.schmidt23]

So I got my bow pretty close to floor tiller last night. Decided to put a chalk line down the middle to check the string tracking. This is what I got


So I took a step back and looked at everything. These staves I cut have pretty high crown and I can't tell if I jacked up my design by not bringing the crown flat across the stave or just a twist. Here's what I got:


This is the handle and fades despite what it looks like both fades measures the same

Bad design, preparation or just a bend?

[Pat B]

You really can't tell how the string tracks until you brace the bow.

[Eric Krewson]

Your layout is a little wonky, if you get very straight lines from your fade to your tip it may change things.

I agree with Pat as well. I made a static osage recurve a month ago that had limbs going every which way unstrung, every thing was arrow straight with perfect string tracking when it was strung.

[George Tsoukalas]

I leave the handle full width and the nocks a good inch wide, at least until I brace the stave for the first time. That way I can make adjustments to track the string.

That can be the subject for another post if you are interested.

How wide are your nocks.

Jawge

[Justin.schmidt23]

I'm haveing a hard time with the simplest thing of laying out the bow. Everything looks great until I get it down to floor tiller then it's crap city. George that would be great. Tips are 1/2" wide. Handle is roughly 1 1/14"

[bradsmith2010]

I don't think you are that far off, ,, just get it strung,, then make adjustments if needed,,,
if the string is to one side of the handle a bit,, shoot the arrow off that side,, and make that the top limb,,
if you think you need it to line up better do that after you see how it shoots,,

[Justin.schmidt23]

Ok I can do that. I'm gonna let it dry out a while it's still extremely green.

[Eric Garza]

George's suggestion mirrors what I do. I lay the bow out so handle, limbs and tips are wider than my end goal, and tiller from both sides and belly once the bow is first braced to make sure everything lines up properly. It's been my experience that when you first start bending most pieces of wood, they will warp a little so if you line everything up perfect before you bend the limbs, once they start to bend they might not line up perfectly anymore.

[Del the cat]

You can always narrow it at the grip and do a bit of bend there very late on in the process... meanwhile ignore the string line and in future leave the grip until the end.
If you follow the build of the wonky Hazel bow on my blog, I had exactly the same issues and did a steam bend very late to improve arrow flight.
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2016/08/very-interesting.html
Del

[scp]

I'm gonna let it dry out a while it's still extremely green.

It's not difficult to correct the string alignment with dry heat after the bow is dry enough to be stringed. I do my best not to narrow the handle too much until the stave is well seasoned.

[Justin.schmidt23]

Thankle you everyone for the tips. I think I just got way ahead of myself. Now I know not to make everything so exact until after tillering

[Pat B]

If the stave is still quite green you can clamp it to a form until it dries. That will help eliminate some of the lateral bend.

[Dakota Kid]

^^^ +1

If it's green clamp it straight while it dries. It should hold some if not all of the correction.

[mullet]

You are jumping way ahead of the game since you just cut them down a few weeks ago. I don't think I'd be worrying about string alighnment this early.

[Justin.schmidt23]

You are jumping way ahead of the game since you just cut them down a few weeks ago. I don't think I'd be worrying about string alighnment this early.

Well it's basically at floor tiller so while I'm letting ithe dry figured I'd take a step back and check it out