Author Topic: Beeswax finish...  (Read 2620 times)

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Offline Cloudfeather

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Beeswax finish...
« on: August 21, 2016, 07:52:52 pm »
I've been tinkering around with different mixes of beeswax, linseed oil, and turpentine. I've seen many instructions and found that a mix of 2:1:1 beeswax, linseed oil and turpentine is the standard. I've made it and it works wonderfully. Both as a finish on wood, leather, etc. But also for waterproofing. My only issue is that the mix starts to solidify after a while. Even when in a sealed container.

I'm using boiled linseed oil and think I remember someone, somewhere saying that you should use ray linseed oil. Something about the boiled linseed oil having some kind of drying agent added to it that makes it congeal? Does anyone have any experience with this that can set me straight? Also, can I boil the stuff I have and add more turpentine to make it pasty again? I really hate the idea of wasting the beeswax, as it was cleaned and filtered by my friend and I.

Thanks in advance.

Offline jaxenro

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #1 on: August 21, 2016, 08:18:49 pm »
Most "boiled" linseed oil today isn't actually boiled but has metallic drying agents added to it to chemically cause it to harden

Offline SLIMBOB

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #2 on: August 21, 2016, 08:19:58 pm »
From what I have read, the "boiled" is not physically boiled but has certain drying agents that chemically boil it. It drys much quicker than raw linseed oil. That's as I understand it
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Offline Cloudfeather

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #3 on: August 21, 2016, 08:28:30 pm »
I think I'm going to order some raw linseed oil and make a small test batch. See if it has any better longevity. Really love the paste wax that the combo makes though. So versatile.

Offline jaxenro

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2016, 08:33:49 pm »
You might want to try this it's a beeswax/linseed oil finish but they don't use the toxic dryers. I have had an part used bottle on my shelf for a year and it is as good as new. Only issue is it takes a long time to dry on the wood. I have used it on leather as well

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,57896.0.html

Offline Dakota Kid

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2016, 12:11:27 am »
Cloudfeather,

Check Dick Blick artist supply. They have dozen and dozens of oil medium binders. I think the one you're after is called cold press linseed oil.

I've heard good things about walnut oil, but have yet to try it.
I have nothing but scorn for all weird ideas other than my own.
~Terrance McKenna

Offline FilipT

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #6 on: August 22, 2016, 03:05:39 am »
Personally I find combination of pig fat and beeswax pretty enough.

Offline loon

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #7 on: August 22, 2016, 03:18:05 am »
I have this pure tung oil from a bottle I bought online and that's what I tend to use besides Tru-oil when I care more about protection.

Is there any advantage to boiling the drying oil besides faster drying time?

I've thought about mixing tung oil and beeswax, bit worried about it blowing up but I guess that shouldn't happen if I don't add water? Or would it happen anyway due to temperature difference? Can't boil the oil in a vacuum...
« Last Edit: August 22, 2016, 01:45:58 pm by loon »

Offline Dakota Kid

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #8 on: August 22, 2016, 05:51:04 am »
If they do in fact boil it and it's not just a way of saying they've added chemical drying agents, the viscosity would change to a thicker consistency and it would then be sterile if it wasn't to begin with. I've heard certain oil mediums can go rancid if not used in a timely fashion.
I have nothing but scorn for all weird ideas other than my own.
~Terrance McKenna

Offline stuckinthemud

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Re: Beeswax finish...
« Reply #9 on: August 24, 2016, 04:42:15 am »
Olive oil goes rancid in the wood and smells awful, so turners and carvers often use sunflower oil when they need a food-safe finish for bowls, etc  as it doesn't go bad