Newbie looking to make his first bow

[SLIMBOB]

The trunk, or limb forms a circle when viewed from the end right?  Just under the bark will be the back of your bow.  It wont be flat, like a board, it will be rounded across the back.  That's the crown I'm speaking of.  The smaller the diameter the limb, the more rounded across the back it will be (higher crown).  The larger the diameter, the flatter it will be (lower crown). 

[Bamsk8brder]

Oh okay first time I've heard that term used to describe that. Thanks again.

[Dakota Kid]

If you're gonna use a limb, search the site for "reaction wood" and read up a bit. The closer to horizontal the branch is growing the more it will show properties of reaction wood.

In a nutshell the reaction wood in a hardwood is called tension wood. It makes up the top half of the limb and is under high tension in it's effort to fight gravity. The top half is the good bow making half, you can toss the bottom half. In softwoods it's called compression wood and forms just the opposite. The underside of the limb gains compression strength becoming harder to bend in it's fight against gravity. So in softwoods it's the bottom part of the limb you want and the top is firewood. If you look at the growth rings of a limb after you cut it, it's pretty obvious that the two halves grew very differently.

[George Tsoukalas]

Check out my site. There are buildalongs on it.
Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com/

[loon]

If you're gonna use a limb, search the site for "reaction wood" and read up a bit. The closer to horizontal the branch is growing the more it will show properties of reaction wood.

In a nutshell the reaction wood in a hardwood is called tension wood. It makes up the top half of the limb and is under high tension in it's effort to fight gravity. The top half is the good bow making half, you can toss the bottom half. In softwoods it's called compression wood and forms just the opposite. The underside of the limb gains compression strength becoming harder to bend in it's fight against gravity. So in softwoods it's the bottom part of the limb you want and the top is firewood. If you look at the growth rings of a limb after you cut it, it's pretty obvious that the two halves grew very differently.

Though people have had problems with using compression-side juniper. I imagine they may use it too dry or something, and tension side juniper seems to make a bow

[Dakota Kid]

I wondered if there might be a tree that breaks that rule. It seems like there's always an odd ball out there when it comes to this type of thing.  I have zero experience with juniper but will remember that in case I come across some. The juniper around here is mostly ornamental, so I'd be lucky to find a usable trunk let alone a big enough branch.

[Bamsk8brder]

Thanks for everything guys hoping to find out about those hickory trees tonight or tomorrow and would love to go harvest this weekend. Still trying to track down a draw knife to use and haven't really looked for it but still needing a rasp. And although it's not for the bow itself still trying to get my hands on a deer antler to make flint napping tools. All in all this has been a fun experience already and I haven't even had a chance to start.

[mullet]

I'm with Slimbob, I'd make a bow that bends nice and not worry about weighing it. When I started making bows I had a pocket knife and hatchet. I just worked a bow till I could finally string it. Then, I cleaned it up.

[loon]

I'm with Slimbob, I'd make a bow that bends nice and not worry about weighing it. When I started making bows I had a pocket knife and hatchet. I just worked a bow till I could finally string it. Then, I cleaned it up.

I have a cabinet scraper, a japanese saw, and a knife... might get a plane or spokeshave. should I get a hatchet?

I may go with a white oak, hickory or red oak pyramid board for my first bow

[Newindian]

I used art sinew for a string once, wasn't really shooting for performance but it seamed just fine (which surprised me. My advice, after you get a couple staves together pick the ugliest one you think you can handle, work it to floor tillering, then set it in the dryest room you can find for a month (if you don't have a scale), then just worry about making a bow. Worry about draw weight and so forth once you know a bit about how it's Going to go.

[Newindian]

I'm with Slimbob, I'd make a bow that bends nice and not worry about weighing it. When I started making bows I had a pocket knife and hatchet. I just worked a bow till I could finally string it. Then, I cleaned it up.

I have a cabinet scraper, a japanese saw, and a knife... might get a plane or spokeshave. should I get a hatchet?

I may go with a white oak, hickory or red oak pyramid board for my first bow

Yes, a hatched probably dose 70% of my bulk work

[DesertDisciple]

It may be prudent to work on a couple of board bows while you wait for your hickory to dry. Focus on getting a really good bend more so than draw weight. A well tillered light weight bow is really fun to shoot.

Board bows may not be the perfect training for working a stave but they teach you to be selective about your wood and to recognize the relationship between rings and density.

Plus there are tons of great board bow build-alongs and it is much less heart breaking to break a board than a hard earned hickory stave. I'm not saying you have to expect a break; my first couple both survived; but it's nice to practice using your tools on something with less sentiment. 

[DesertDisciple]

Also, draw length was one of the most frustrating aspects to figure out for me. Every method seems to give you a different number. I've varied anywhere from 25 to 29 (changes if you switch hands believe it or not!)

The method I've found most USEFUL is to mark an arrow every inch out from the nock and put a clothes pin on the shaft. Draw the bow with normal shooting form. Where the clothes pin stops is your draw length.

If you think about it, all you really need to know is how long an arrow you need to clear the riser. When you eventually get a tillering tree set up you can just measure from the back of the bow to make your marks. I'm 5'9" and have a 26in draw. I tiller to 27" because I'm still learning where my best anchor is and experiment often.

Sorry for long posts. 

[Bamsk8brder]

Haven't forgotten about you guys but tracking down a tree to use has become a problem spite all my prospects from friends. Life is busy but as soon as I get my first bow started I will start posting pictures. I'm looking forward to starting and working my first bow. I did make my first glass bottom arrowhead and although it wasn't as straight as I wanted it was still a good first effort in my opinion

[Dictionary]

Go to Lowes or Home Depot and get the best 1x2 red oak board that they have available. Back it with something like linen or silk and make a bow. Quick and easy way to get working on something to gain some experience tillering.