Andrew, make a jig to put on the table of your 1" belt sander for making the point and nock taper. Cut 2 "V" grooves in the base, one at 5deg(nock end) and one at 11deg(point end). With the base mounted to the sander table and your arrow in the appropriate groove spin the shaft while coming in contact with the belt to taper the end. Cut the taper longer than normal with the thicker shafts. You can shorten the taper if necessary.
You can build a simple shaft tapering jig and taper the rear 10" to 11/32 or 22/64 then use the regular point/nock taper tool to taper the ends. Tapered shafts like this seem to clear the bow better also. Here are a few pics of the jig I made...
The dowels in the end of the jig in the last pic are spacers(3/8", 23/64", 11/32") that I place at the end of the jig as a stop and to space the tapering arms. They come out of their hole and fit in the holes(for dumping saw dust) along the length on the jig. The side arms have wing nuts on the pivot bolts and a slot in the base for quick adjustments.
I made this jig to taper poplar shafts and it worked well so POC should be pretty easy. Chuck the shaft in an electric drill and slowly work it into the jig, going back and forth as you feed the shaft into the jig. Don't force it, just let the sand paper and drill do their work.
I used course, 4" sanding belt(for durability and cut to fit) fastened with double sided carpet tape to the tapering arms. Both the sanding belt and double sided tape came from ACE Hardware but should be anywhere. Not expensive to make but very effective for rear tapering shafts.
