Need better eyes

[Fred Arnold]

58" NTN currently 45@23. Plenty of room to get this one right. I won't lose much weight during finishing because the back and sides have already been sanded down up to 220 grit and the tools marks on the belly have been removed with 60 and 100 grit.

Unbraced pic taken last. Right limb is top and 1" longer. Draw pic is at 18"

I'm shooting for 48 @27.

Your opinions are appreciated. >>-----> Fred

[penderbender]

Outer 1/3's look a little stiff. But over all looks good. I like the wiggle out of the handle on the bottom limb. Cheers- Brendan

[Josh B]

Right limb looks spot on Fred.  The left limb looks a tiny bit flat on the outer 1/3, but it's very close.  Looking good so far!  Josh

[PlanB]

The handle looks like it is rocking up on the tree on the left, and with the nock point of the string right of center, and limb asymmetry, I'm finding it hard to tell what is really happening, Fred. Tips rae different heights. As a rough guess maybe the left handle area looks a little stiff to me, but take that with a grain of salt. The high point of the curve is left of center. It just looks hard there. How does it feel shooting? I'm guessing you have tried it because of the silencers mounted.

[Fred Arnold]

Balances well in the hand and shoots great although I've only shot a half dz arrows through it at partial draw.

I did take Gun Doc"s suggestion and scraped some more on the outer 1/3 of the left limb and also some full length scrapes on bot limbs. After exercising the limbs at about 40 pulls @24 it's looking a little better. I still need to remove more wood as it's currently pulling 48@24.

Also thinking of carefully working a small amount next to that bottom fade.

[Fred Arnold]

Am I deceiving myself trying to incorporate this paint program with this bow? Now drawn to 24"

[Josh B]

The paint thingy has limited use when you have character in your bow.  That being said make your oval bigger and don't worry about having one side touching the nocking point.  Your looking for even bend in your limbs in comparison to each other.  Also the last 6-8 inches of your limbs should flatten out and not continue to lay along your elipse.  I hope that makes some sort of sense.  Josh

[Fred Arnold]

Josh, thank you. Would you say that except for the last 6-8" that I should scrape some more from the outer 1/3?

[Josh B]

Yeah I'd say so, but don't get to carried away with it.  You are pretty close.  A technique I use when I have the bend right and I just want to drop weight is to mentally divide each limb into thirds. I then take 3 scrapes of the outer thirds.  Then take 3 scrapes off the outer 2/3 of the limb.  Then take 3 scrapes over the entire length of the limb.  Then do the same on the other limb.  This simple method works remarkably well for maintaining your bend as you drop weight.  Of course it's not perfect.  When you get within a couple inches of your intended draw, you'll have to make some slight adjustments to the tiller.  It will get you there pretty quick though.  I don't  remember who I picked that technique up from, but I owe them a debt of thanks.  You're probably pretty close to that point already so chalk it up as a future reference thing. Josh

[DuBois]

Yes!
I knew I had heard something like that technique before but couldn't remember how it went. I think it may have been George Tsoukalis but not sure. Anyway, now I owe Josh a debt of thanks for reintroducing it to my eyes.

[George Tsoukalas]

Probably not me. Josh, it is a fine technique. I used something similar  to start a tiller but not to finish it. I don't use it anymore. Jawge