My first bow.

[Danzn Bar]

The rule of thumb that I started with was the, "length of bow matched my height". After you get some Shootables under your belt, then start playing. You will learn a lot about bow building when you get a good, stable shooter.

Couldn't of said it better myself.............thanks Eddie 
Minimum is two times your draw length plus 10" for handle and fades, that's a good start......for you first bows
DBar   

[nakedfeet]

I'll echo what the others have said: The bow looks too short for the draw length, and is way too stiff out of the handle and through the fades to mid-limb.

You could try to repair it, but you'll never really get it to shoot the way you want it to. Hold onto it for the memory and what it meant to you, and build another (dozen).

[Eric Krewson]

You need a tillering gizmo.

[Swamp Thang]

You need a tillering gizmo.

Yeah I have a draw knife and a rasp

[Swamp Thang]

Are tight growth rings good or bad?

[SLIMBOB]

Love em tight.  When I first started I looked for osage with rings like Mulberry.  Easier to chase yadda yadda.  But over time I have seen the thinner stuff out perform the thick.  Someone will come along and swear it makes no difference, as this debate comes up every so often.  Almost everything we do with these wood bows is done in small measures and the results are measured small, but tight rings with very little early growth is what I would order from the Bodark Store. 

[Swamp Thang]

Love em tight.  When I first started I looked for osage with rings like Mulberry.  Easier to chase yadda yadda.  But over time I have seen the thinner stuff out perform the thick.  Someone will come along and swear it makes no difference, as this debate comes up every so often.  Almost everything we do with these wood bows is done in small measures and the results are measured small, but tight rings with very little early growth is what I would order from the Bodark Store.

Thank goodness I've had this stave for 6 months already cut to shorty length I never really looked at the rings the first one that cracked was made from the same tree...I'm hoping to get a nice clean tiller on this one... the other my first shot was on point I'm def. Gonna listen to yall though and start making them longer they just are no real use to me longer.

[SLIMBOB]

I make lots of short ones, so I'm not saying you MUST go long, not at all.  Depends on your goals with each stave.  I am simply saying that it is easier to get a shooter from a longer piece of wood than a short one, and if the goal is a shooter, longer is easier.  No one started making self bows however because it was easy.  The rule of thumb I passed on to you earlier is just that, a rule of thumb.  It can be bent, twisted, broken or ignored all together, and as evidenced by the short Molly that Half Eye mentioned, with enough skill and luck you can do all kinds of things.  But the rule is there for a reason.  On the average your odds are better if you follow it.  This is a great place to learn this craft, and you will find no shortage of people willing to help with advice and critique.  Post what you have early, and solicit advise on what to do next.  You will get varying opinions from lots of folks, then just pick what seems right and get after it.  Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

I want to add that no matter which way you go, long or short, good tiller is a must on either and especially critical on the shorter bows.  Your tiller eye needs some refinement.  I would suggest getting you a straight edge, 4 inches long or so and working your limbs into shape slowly, using the straight edge.  It alone will keep you on track to a serviceable if not enviable tiller on this one.

[JW_Halverson]

And despite how I may sound to you like I am contradicting the good advice folks are giving you about going longer...there is a way to do that and still GO SHORTER, TOO!

Dump the stiff grip and fade away from fade outs!  Build a bend-thru-the-handle bow.  Double your draw length.  My 26" draw length requires 52" of wood between the nocks without overstraining the wood and not requiring any recurving tips, etc.  Double your draw length and add a couple inches for safety margin to get a shorter bow yet with longer working limbs.  Plus, the tillering is simplified because you are making the entire bow bend equally.  The bow should come into a perfect smooth round arc. 

That means when you are first beginning to get bend, you can stand back and hold up something round at arms length and compare it to the bend of the limbs.  Any flat spot stands out like a sore thumb and a hinge is even better at getting your attention.  It is literally the simplest bow.  And don't think you are sacrificing anything....less mass can equal higher performance! 

[Swamp Thang]

Shoot critique is the only way to learn I'm just grateful everyone has taken there time to help.... a foolish man never learn a smart man learns from his mistakes and a wise man learns from others. Thanks guys! I never thought about a bend through.

[SLIMBOB]

At 50 inches, no question that's what I would do.

[Swamp Thang]

Well I'm off the mutilate another stave 

[JW_Halverson]

Well I'm off the mutilate another stave 

That's the spirit!

[crooketarrow]

GOOD JOB