Removing tools marks

[lauderw55]

Hey guys dumb question but last couple bows I have made I have had trouble removing tool marks. The current way I been tillering is using a rough file then a fine file once getting close too end of tillering and then sand paper from there. But having some trouble getting all tool mark out. Any advice would be appericated

[PatM]

More grades of sandpaper and don't skip any.

[bubby]

Get some cabinet scrapersand eliminate the fine file

[DC]

I use a scraper to get them out. Then like PatM says.I hold the bow up to a window or a light and sight along it. If I see a ripple or mark I cover the area with pencil marks. Use an 80 grit sanding stick to get rid of all the pencil marks. Try not to think of the first coat of finish as a finish coat. It's mostly to show up the marks you missed. Go back and sand/scrape them out.

[Mounter]

IMO, high quality sandpaper pays for itself many times over. I used to waste a lot of time and had a lot of frustration using cheap and medium grade paper finishing bows. Mostly glass bows ,but there's not much difference when it comes to finish work...

[bubby]

IMO, high quality sandpaper pays for itself many times over. I used to waste a lot of time and had a lot of frustration using cheap and medium grade paper finishing bows. Mostly glass bows ,but there's not much difference when it comes to finish work...




×2]

[Del the cat]

Biggest mistake we are taught is that you sandpaper along the grain.
Yes, maybe you do as a final finish, but you will never remove a longitudinal toolmark by sanding along it.
Going across the grain diablo fashion on curved surfaces is great for taking out tool marks.
A cork block with sandpaper will help remove ripples, without a block you can just make the ripples worse.
First coat of finish is just to help show the tool marks and generally a good deal of it removed.
Best of all is a big stack of patience and decent light.
Del
 

[mikekeswick]

You just need to adjust when you are using your tools in the process.
If you are getting to the end and there are any tool marks then you used that tool too late in the process.
Say you used your bastard file until 24 inches of draw (heading to 28) then switched to the second cut file....and ended up at 28 trying to sand scratches out you should only use your bastard file until say 20 inches of draw.
The last few inches of drawlength I use only sandpaper.

My tools - axe/bandsaw/drawknife - coarse rasps/spokeshave/handled scraper - fine rasps/cabinet scraper/bastard file - second cut file/cabinet scraper - sandpaper.
Also buy only the best sandpaper. Abranet is just superb.

[Pappy]

I take them out with the scrapper, some say you take off to much wood , but the wood has to come off somehow if you want the tool makes gone. I use very little sand paper except to take the rough sharp edges off when roughing it out or getting it floor tillered or getting the back slick at the start and rarely use a file after I get it on the tiller tree.
 Pappy

[Dances with squirrels]

What Mike Keswick said. Tool choice/procession is the ticket.

[Chief RID]

What a great thread and responses! I love to hear different ways to get the same results. Very cool! Tool marks are the least of my problems. I hope to one day get to that point.

[osage outlaw]

I wrap sandpaper around a drywall sanding sponge.  It's soft enough to follow the shape of the bow.

[lauderw55]

Thanks for the replies. I think I have used tools to late in the process. I have not tried sand against the grain and am goin to try that on my current bow

[Eric Krewson]

I stop using a file or rasp when I go to the short string. I use scrapers for basic tillering and finish up the tillering with an orbital sander with 220 grit paper on it. With quality paper you can remove a good bit of wood with the sander and get rid of all the tool marks while tillering. The sander will leave tiny swirls in the wood that can be easily removed with a few passes of hand sanding.

I bought my cheap orbital sander from Walmart for $13. I don't like the clamp on sanding paper so I use stick on squares on the foam pad on the sander. When the paper is exhausted I make a few pases over it with a heat gun and the glue turns loose without damaging the flimsy foam pad.

[George Tsoukalas]

Once I string the stave I use a scraper-like tool or sometimes I'll alternate a rasp or surform with a scraper.
Any tool marks after that are removed  with a pen knife.
Final sanding consisted of 100 grit, 220 grit and 400 and 600 grit.
Jawge