Author Topic: Hazel stick  (Read 2184 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline BowEd

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,390
  • BowEd
Hazel stick
« on: June 11, 2016, 06:03:42 pm »
I just cut a hazel around 70" long.1.75" diameter on one end and a shade over 1.5" on the other end.Think I can get at least 50#'s out of it?Looks pretty decently clean.Has a natural arch of about 1.5" reflex.I just sealed the ends and left the bark on to dry.Put it in a steel shed.I imagine if I try to rip it in half and debark it, it would check a bit.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline Thunder

  • Member
  • Posts: 240
Re: Hazel stick
« Reply #1 on: June 12, 2016, 12:31:15 am »
I've never worked with Hazel, but I do prefer working with saplings about that size. Leaving the bark on and sealing up the ends has always worked for me. I use American Elm mostly and I get 50-55# bows out of those little sticks.  I'm sure someone with more Hazel experience will chime in.

Cheers
Thunder
"The two most important days in your life are the day you are born...and the day you find out why."  Mark Twain

Offline BowEd

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,390
  • BowEd
Re: Hazel stick
« Reply #2 on: June 12, 2016, 09:48:33 am »
Yes I suppose.I see the build-a-long Gordon has done from a 3" log.Twice this one's diameter.I took the bark off this one yet but sealed the ends.He did.I'll see if it checks and warps.The bark comes off so much easier when wet.It's got close to the same density as elm.I dare bet money it will take heat treatment pretty well to help it hold profile.Got enough length I think too.All in all good prospect so far.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline Dakota Kid

  • Member
  • Posts: 897
  • Maker of Things
Re: Hazel stick
« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2016, 02:18:47 am »
My current favorite shooter is my hazel bow. It's 66" n.t.n., 1.75" wide at the fades, and pulls 60# @ 29".  I was really impressed with the characteristics of the wood. I have a bunch more staves drying at the moment. If you finish with tru oil and buff in between coats it looks like polished ivory after 5 coats or so. It does like to check, but normal precautions usually work okay. I did dry mine with the bark on. I just wet it down with a spray bottle and let it soak in a bit when it was time to remove it.
I have nothing but scorn for all weird ideas other than my own.
~Terrance McKenna

Offline Del the cat

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,322
    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: Hazel stick
« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2016, 03:02:51 am »
Dunno, The English Hazel I've used would need all that width to make 50# and heat treating to avoid chrysals.
I wouldn't d bark it unless you need to because of bugs, it's just extra work and a chance of nicking the back.
Your Hazel may well be quite different...
Del
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

mikekeswick

  • Guest
Re: Hazel stick
« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2016, 04:06:59 am »
Hazel is superb bow wood. :)
I've never had it check much at all.
Definitely heat treat it heavily - it transforms it from not great in compression to a wood that will hold its profile better than most. It just won't lift a splinter no matter how much you mistreat it.
I would think a man of your skill will get a 50# out of it :)

Offline GlisGlis

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,565
Re: Hazel stick
« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2016, 04:36:40 am »
I have done 2 hazel bows
both dried in a fast and ignorant way. No sealing. One left at direct sunlight and heat bended while still partially green
both dried without checking. Pretty amazing wood

Offline BowEd

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,390
  • BowEd
Re: Hazel stick
« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2016, 08:24:05 am »
Thanks fellas....Now all I need to do is wait a while for it to dry.Removal of the bark revealed a kind of corrigated texture.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed