weight loss

[penderbender]

Just wondering... i've never "quick dried" staves before, but am in the process now. just wondering how long after it stops losing weight, I can bend it? I'm sure some of you guys do this on the regular. I'm more of a seal and wait type of guys haha thanks in advance! Brendan

[crooketarrow]

  I like to let nature take it's course (let seaon with time). But I've did a few, when someone can't wait.but never the hole stave. I cut the stave down to semi bow form. Them put it in a hot box 15 wat bulbs crack the lead. Hard woods 2,3 weeks depending on the thickness. White woods 1,2 weeks again depening on thickneess.

  REMEMBER THE SLOWER ( LESS TEMP) YOU GO THE BETTER MORE EVENLY YOUR STAVE WILL SEASON. Go to fast you'll get checks where the water in your stave came out alot to quick.

In a  to re dryrate cut in on down to floor tiller. But don't been it yet. Wait a week for the new inter wood is well hidrated if it hasn't had time. Then you can been the limbs to tiller and finish.

  I kinda never had a set time for different woods in the hot box. I don't know how your seasoning your wood. I need to know that for starters.

[Pat B]

If your stave has quit loosing weight for a few days it has hit equilibrium with the R/H. Depending on that R/H any time after loosing weight should be fine for stressing the wood. You will have to be the judge whether it is dry enough or not by the feel of the wood and how it takes that stress.

[penderbender]

Thanks crooketarrow, i'm not using a hotbox. Just the sun/my very hot bedroom haha. They are small diameter saplings. Serviceberry, oceanspray, wild rose, and hazel. They have been reduced to near bow size, ends sealed, back of hazel sealed cause bark came off super easy.   @ Pat b thanks that's pretty much what I figured! Cheers - brendan

[DC]

Serviceberry will dry fairly easily in our climate(makes a great bow too) but Ocean Spray will check. I've had OS split wide open full length of a six foot stave. I'm trying putting OS in long plastic tubes with the ends open. So far it seems to be working. I won't work OS unless it's had least a year drying. It's great wood but ya godda be patient. I cut all my sapling staves like the picture. Cut them to the center except for the handle section. Once cut to the center they won't check(debark and seal the ends and back) except for the handle section, it will split. I usually put a saw kerf to the center(belly side)of the handle just so I know where the split will be. The kerf will open like a clam. I've had an 1/8" kerf open to more than 1/2" on a 2" stave. I fill the split with an inlay of some sort. Used Bondo once. Looked stupid. OS will take set if you work it to soon. It steams well and likes dry heat/ heat treating.

Anyway, your question. I usually leave it a week or more past the weight stabilizing just to be sure. If you watch the RH and the stave weight together you'll notice that when the RH goes up so does the weight. You will notice this on a daily basis using a gram scale. So if the RH is dropping the weight will go down and make it look like it's reached equilibrium even though it's still drying.

If you're ever up this way I can give you an OS stave so you don't have to wait.

[penderbender]

Thanks DC! I know os likes to check bad i've had good luck letting them season in the round or worked to pith as you do. This is more or an experiment. I'm getting married this august and want to make four bows for my grooms men. From members of the rose family, with stuff i've cut in the last month. I'm also wondering if anyone has used salmonberry? It's super dense stuff. Anyways i'm just trying to push myself haha. Thanks for the offer, i'm gonna try and get up that way this summer. We could hook up and do a trade. I've got lots of seasoned staves, of lots of different woods. Cheers -brendan

[wizardgoat]

Ya it's tough seasoning wood in this climate, especially when your new to it and just want to make some bows!  Keep cutting and preparing your staves well and eventually you'll become a wood hoarder like many of us with endless dry wood to work.
When my blanks reach equilibrium I usually wait another few weeks to be sure.
Set from moisture content is an easy nuisance to avoid with a lot of patience. 
If your ever in Vancouver I'm always up for a trade and/or meet up

[penderbender]

I hear you wizard. I'm only new to this site. I've made over 20 bows in the last 8 years or so. I've got three kids since then so time has been hard. I've been a wood hoarder since before I made bows too. Haha this little rock that a live on is the perfect bow wood place. I'll be sure to look you up if i'm on the mainland too! Are you right in van?

[crooketarrow]

  A hot box is fast cheap and simple. Get inch foam 4x8 sheet. 3 Light bulb fixers, wiring.

  Build a 12 wide 15 high 8" long with a lid. I screwed and glued mine together.

  Space out the electrical sockets. Add a plug. Use 15 to 20 Watt bulbs. I use broken arrows to hold the wood above the light bulbs.

  That's months faster than letting it dry at room temps. Unless you turn the heat WAYYYYYYYYYYY UP.

[wizardgoat]

Ya I live in Vancouver on the east side. Pender island is awesome, your lucky to live there.
You should post some of your work, we love pics of bows. Cheers

[penderbender]

Most of em I gave away, some broke, never really took any pictures of them. I put up one one here titled "waste bow" not really a good representation of my work. I only used a knife, and a rasp. It was just for fun. I'll get lots up here in the future don't worry haha I just picked up three elb type bows I have roughed out one pretty much done. I'll get some pics happening! Cheers - brendan