Making a 2pc takedown with FG sleeve from billets

[arachnid]

Hi guys.

I've seen people making 2pc takedowns out of a 1pc bow, which they cut at the handle. Question is, can I use this method with 2 billets? I don't want to splice, make a bow and then cut.
Any thoughts?

Thanks
Dor

[PatM]

Of course. You just need to match your pieces well.

[Del the cat]

You could make a temporary sleeve/clamp to use while rough tillering. To make the real sleeve the key thing is to get the two limbs solidly clamped up aligned correctly. The end that is going to pull out needs a slight taper with a good smooth finish and plenty of release agent it will still be hell's own job pulling it out.
Del

[simson]

Why do you wanna use fg sleeves? Some metal pipes makes nice homemade sleeves, a lot easier!
Or just buy some at Carson's shop.

[arachnid]

Buying a metal sleeve will cost me a lot. I thought of making one out of steel pipes, but a friend of mine told me I won't get a perfect, snug fit. So I thought I'll try FG. I have 2 mulberry billets for quite some time now and I don't want to splice them if I can make a takedown.

[Jim Davis]

Buying a metal sleeve will cost me a lot. I thought of making one out of steel pipes, but a friend of mine told me I won't get a perfect, snug fit.

A myth or two is at work here. FIrst. buy a piece of DOM (drawn over mandrel) seamless tubing. It's smooth inside--no weld. Then work your billets down to be a slip fit in the tube. Next take the end that is to be solid and epoxy it in. When the epoxy has cured, wax the inside of the other end of the tube, spread epoxy on the second billet, slip it into the tube, rotate as needed to line up and wait for the cure.

If you did not shape the limbs before hand, layout your edges and go to work. If you did work he limbs first, tiller them out and finish. String up the bow and shoot it a while. By that time, the removable limb should be removable without straining  yourself. If it still won't come out, just shoot the bow day after day (I know, a real drag) and it will loosen up. I drill and pin the limb that stays in the sleeve. Even it can loosen, because the sleeve is so smooth inside.

I have some DOM 1" ID tubing 4"-long pieces. The handle of the small bow in the images is 5". With a 4", the arrow pass would be on the wood.

Jim Davis

[mikekeswick]

Fg works much better than metal tubing because you can shape it to any shape you want. Metal tubes force the handle to be a certain shape.
Search on youtube for BIg Jims takedown sleeve. This is how you make a proper fg sleeve for a glass bow. You will have to modify the method for a wood only bow but it should give you some ideas.
Jim - You sure the sleeve 'loosened'!? The wood inside continues to shrink after being made if it was a little over emc. IF I had to use metal sleeves I would do some drying on the ends to be fitted into the sleeves.

[arachnid]

I've watched Big Jim's videos and there's agood build a long on 'pirats of archery'. But it's much easier to shape the handle of a 1pc bow and then cut it and mold the FG sleeve on the handle. My main concern is the difficulty to shape and match the 2 billets when they are seperated.

Onec more thing- I've seen people gluing on a piece of phenolic where the two halves butt together. Is it necessary?

[PatM]

You're giving yourself paralysis by analysis.   Just fit the pieces temporarily with a scarf joint  at the same angle as your final cut,  shape the handle and then cut it in half on the same glue line.
  The extra pieces aren't necessary but it's not hard to add those shims.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Paralysis by Analysis. Common affliction round these parts.

[arachnid]

Thanks Pat. I think I got it.... And learned a new phrase one the way..

[Jim Davis]

Fg works much better than metal tubing because you can shape it to any shape you want. Metal tubes force the handle to be a certain shape.
Search on youtube for BIg Jims takedown sleeve. This is how you make a proper fg sleeve for a glass bow. You will have to modify the method for a wood only bow but it should give you some ideas.
Jim - You sure the sleeve 'loosened'!? The wood inside continues to shrink after being made if it was a little over emc. IF I had to use metal sleeves I would do some drying on the ends to be fitted into the sleeves.

I like my handles round, as they were for thousands of years before the 1930s.

And yes, it's the wood that shrinks. Still ends up loose. BTW, the same is true for fiberglass.

[PEARL DRUMS]

As well you can glue cork on the steel sleeves and shape it however you like, then wrap it in leather.