Author Topic: Steamed recurve question  (Read 1879 times)

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Offline Academonicon

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Steamed recurve question
« on: April 24, 2016, 05:47:44 pm »
Hey bowyers.  Dumb question from a relative newbie: How long should a steamed recurve sit in the jig before un-clamping it?  I've made a few before, but I've had a lot of curve-loss, and I'm thinking it's because I took it out of the jig too quick.  Recommendations?

(Follow-up: Does the type of wood matter?  I'm making a maple-backed black locust right now, but I work with different stuff.)

Offline bubby

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2016, 05:58:16 pm »
if you want to be safe leave it overnite, some guys will sey it with dry heat to help with springback
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline DC

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2016, 06:24:24 pm »
+1

Offline Pat B

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2016, 06:35:37 pm »
I always leave them at least over night.
 also, if the backing is already glued down recurving it is going to be a problem.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Weylin

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2016, 06:39:38 pm »
I  like to set it with dry heat afterwards. I've noticed a big difference in regards to keeping the bend.

Offline Academonicon

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2016, 06:58:09 pm »
Thanks folks!  And Pat, don't worry, the backing's going on after the curve is set in.

Offline Stixnstones

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2016, 08:03:15 pm »
Keep it in over nite, but dont work it for few days.
DevilsBeachSelfbows

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2016, 12:08:07 pm »
The answer is always "longer than you want to."

Offline Academonicon

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2016, 02:05:48 pm »
Okay, another follow-up: The maple I'm going to back the bow with is only about 1/8" thick and super bendy.  Do I actually have to steam/boil in recurves on that strip and THEN apply it to the back of the bow, or can I just bend it to the form of the bow and glue it down without going through a separate steam-bending process? 

In bending in the recurves I lifted some scary looking cracks.  I clamped them down, so the bow is intact for the moment, but I'm thinking I should trap the belly-side of the tips with the same maple I'm using on the back, so this question will apply to both backing and belly-trapping on the tips.

Offline bubby

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #9 on: April 25, 2016, 02:28:25 pm »
prebending the backing will make life easier.
How thick were the recurves, always try to get a single belly rind and round off the edges
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Academonicon

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #10 on: April 25, 2016, 04:03:20 pm »
Re bubby: The locust is from a board, and unfortunately chasing single rings wasn't an option.  The recurves faded from about 3/4-1/2" side-to-side, and deepened toward the tip, from probably around 7/16 - 5/8".  I'm out right now, but I'll add pictures later.

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Steamed recurve question
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2016, 09:24:42 am »
For the future, you can strap boards during bending.  You can thin it way down and count on adding overlays.  Or, you can saw it into smaller slats and bend them each individually first.