Oak Selfbow Failure #1

[Clovis6]

Somewhere on the Primitive Archer website I read that the only way to become a bowyer is to start making bows. So I was wandering around Home Depot a couple of weeks ago and found a 1"x2" piece of oak that looked like it just might make a bow. Having never made a bow before, I figured it was better to learn on a $12 piece of "lumber" than on an expensive Osage or Yew stave.  With a little help from the Bowyer's Bible and several "Make a Red Oak Selfbow" websites, I got after it. Was targeting a 40#@28" bow hoping that it would be light enough that I could get away without backing it. Everything was going reasonably well with the tillering process until tonight.  At 24" it developed a slight crack on the back of the upper limb and then just exploded. Have attached a couple of pictures just for fun. 

So I guess my question is, this.  Is there a "safe" weight on an oak bow where you don't have to back it or is it just one of those "must do" things?  I have another piece of oak in the basement that I am planning to start work on soon.  Also, should I continue learning with this wood or make the investment in something else where the probability of success might be a little better?   

[paulsemp]

No need to back if the grain is right. You got a bad swirl and run out

[Weylin]

I haven't made many board bows but like Paul said, the trick to board bows is grain, grain, grain and when in doubt, grain.  Stick with it and you can make a fine bow from a board. Glad you're here, Bob. This is the best place short of an experienced bowyer's shop to learn how to make a bow.

[JW_Halverson]

Yup, just a stumble.  Brush yourself off and find another stick with straighter grain, start over. 

Gotta say, she was looking pretty dang sweeeeet until the fatality!

[Pat B]

The break itself indicates the side grain ran steeply from belly to back. It broke along the grain.  That side grain is as important if not more so than the back grain.

[George Tsoukalas]

Good for you for jumping in, Clovis.
Yes, making board bows is all about the grain.
Look for straight grain tip to tip.
More on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/
Note that there is a red oak board bow build along and it is a bend in the handle build without and added handle piece. Easier to tiller.
Jawge

[Msturm]

I have made a  red oak board in the high 40's range without backing. Its all about grain and tiller. Build yourself a tillering gizmo. It works like a dream. And go slow. If you screw it up its only wood. It literally grows on trees.

George's Website was a huge help to me! Check it out

This one is 48lbs at 28. died black with vinegar and steel wool mixture. My buddy has this bow now and has killed a nice goat with it. It is also made out of a 1x2 with perfect grain. Here is the thread with pictures.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=56021.0

[wizardgoat]

my advice for you would be to buy a couple ebay staves and have at er.
White wood staves are not that expensive, and a good stave is much more forgiving than an iffy board.

[jeffp51]

It also looks to me like most of your bend was at the root right out of the fades.  I second the tillering gizmo suggestion--it is the beginner's best friend.  It won't tell you everything, but you will definitely seem much better with it where the flat spots and hinges are, and it will help you to train your eye for what to look for.  I still lean heavily (but not exclusively anymore) on mine.  Use it to mark up the belly then scrape off where the marks are.  Exercise the bow. Rinse and repeat.  Go slow.  once you succeed with one bow you will just want to make another, so what is the rush?

[Clovis6]

Thanks for all of the advice and encouragement.  Will be looking at wood differently from now on. 

Not sure if I'm going to try for another oak bow or do something with Hickory, another whitewood, or maybe invest in a piece of straight Osage. I like the idea of not having glue on a separate handle piece and I really am not into gluing together several lams at this stage.  Wood recommendations anyone?  Also, lots of wood sellers online, need names of a few that people have bought from and been happy with. 

In the meantime, can someone provide a picture of the "tillering gizmo" or a link to one?

[jeffp51]

Go to the how to section and find The sticky topic titled "Eric Krewson's tillering gizmo". It will tell how to make it. Very simple. Some just use a straight edge  without a pencil, but I like the visual mark and the sound it makes on each high point

[mikekeswick]

If you buy boards that are 1 1/4 you don't need to glue a riser piece on.
Don't think that red oak is inherently inferior wood, it isn't. As already mentioned it was the woods fibers being cut through (when it was milled into a board) that made the bow break. If that same piece of wood had been split out of the tree and the bow laid out with the grain it wouldn't have broken. Board bows (unbacked) can only be made from super straight trees that have been milled parallel to the grain.
Think of wood like a bunch of ropes stuck together with weak glue. Your bows back has to have uncut 'ropes' from end to end. These uncut fibers can then take the tension that you put them under. If the grain isn't dead straight on a board bow then for the back to stay together you are relying on that weak glue..... = broken bow somewhere near mid-fulldraw. Think how easy it is to split firewood with the grain.
Good luck in the future.

[George Tsoukalas]

Clovis,

Don't give up on red oak. It is so easy to find and will make a good bow.

I have a couple of other thoughts. I get some once in awhile.

Even if you go to hickory, you still need straight grained stock.

If you stay with red oak you can amend that buildalong on my site to 1 3/8" which makes it a bit
easier to shoot and still potentially get 45-50#.

A backing of silk, linen or burlap may not be needed but still give the budding bowyer some peace of mind.

Jawge

[RLimerick]

The bowyer's learning curve never stops, it just gets better tillered.  Stick with it.  Go out in the woods and harvest you some staves and let them dry out completely.  As my Jedi bow professor tells me, "A stave either wants to be a bow or a tomato stake!"  Remember gorilla in and baby out!

Stay with it!  When you finally do get a decent shooter made with your own two hands, it will ring your tuning fork!!

[ajooter]

I don't know if anybody said it yet..but if ya ain't breaking bows ya ain't making bows.  all part of the process!!  as long as you keep learning.

good board stock can be hard to find...but those boards are out there just takes patience to find the right one.