going for broke

[sleek]

As a result of that knot I had to narrow the bow down. Its 1.5"wide now. Gonna have to drop the weight some for sure.

[sleek]

My boiling technique needs help.

[sleek]

Time to deflex the fades.

[PlanB]

Im certain it about the power stroke. No argument there. But isnt the draw length also the power stroke?  Math applies still here. Force times distance. Distance being the draw length and force being the draw weight. Increase eith and you increase power.

What about longer limbs makes for more power, or ability to use the power?

The 50# is only available at the full draw point, it drops as the arrow moves. The rate that it drops is the key. Because ideally the string is pushing the arrow all the way to brace height. In reality that may not happen.

When we say a particular 50 pound bow has a lot of stack, and also low early string tension, we are describing a situation where most of the force applied to the arrow drops off rapidly in the first few inches of travel. So the total amount of energy imparted to the arrow by the bow is low.

Very short limbs on high weight wood bows are more likely to stack to reach that designed pound figure than a similar design bow with longer limbs. This and the above are big generalizations, but I'm trying to explain one reason why one 50 lb 28 inch draw bow can impart a different amount of energy than another 50 lb. 28 inch draw bow. The draw length and full draw poundage are only the initial state of the power stroke, but stroke itself can look very different to the arrow as it proceeds.

[sleek]

I understand that and thats why fd curves are mapped out. Now as for stacking, doesnt recurves remedy that problem?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Not always. A limb can only bend so far before it starts pulling rather.   

Next static bend you make. Try a 45 minute steam, not boil, and have your caul and clamps ready and right near your stove. Make the bend in one strong motion and clamp it. Its not proper I'm told, but its worked for me many times over. I've never had a crack like that, just a few slight tears that were all worked out in the end. Ive bent osage, yew, elm and hackberry all the same.

[sleek]

Thanks for the advice. One strong pull makes sense to me. Im sure I am missing something simple on these recurves. So to help I am posting a full draw chart on the last one I built.

[PatM]

I would add don't taper your width and thickness from the to be bent area to the tip. You basically peeled up an unsupported portion.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Exactly I usually try get my tips about 5/8" square and I try to get one ring the last foot on osage or locust. 

[Marc St Louis]

I don't know what wood you are using but for that short of a bow you want to use nothing but premium wood, Osage/Yew, with no faults.  Sinew in this case would help but that is defeating the purpose of this exercise

P.S. I'm not terribly fond of reflexed handles on high performance bows and believe they are a detriment

[PatM]

sleek, you need to make those three curves all at the same time like Lukasz does.

[sleek]

[sleek]

[sleek]

What do you know, it broke. This one is gonna get bamboo backed.  Damn.

[sleek]

It cracked earlier when I deflexed the fade. I left room for the back to be reduced  bellow any cracks. I ground below it but this popped up right where the crack used to be.  I have bamboo but wonder about sinewing it.