I'm with the boys on this.
An intact growth ring, not cut into or through anywhere is requirement number one for a bowmaking. There are exceptions, but right there is the rule. You ALWAYS remove material from the belly and sides. ALMOST NEVER the back.
Especially early on, not having lopsided limbs is such a great help. If you don't fix the symmetry, then make or buy a caliper of some sort, anything to measure thickness (shelf brackets bolted together with washers for spacers , maybe? ), and get that perfect limb thickness taper going. If you want to correct them, just slowly clamp the stave face down to a 2x4 or anything, C-clamps obviously work, but what about using metal straps or shelf brackets and strong screws? Or drilling holes in the 2x4 and wiring it in place. You can heat treat over any old camp stove, indoor stove, hotplate, barbecue, etc.. Get yourself the straightest, or at least most symmetrical stave 6ou can manage.
Bigger curves should be steamed out. If you lack equipment, wrap a soaking wet rag around the spot and wrap that in a couple or three wraps of aluminum foil. Tie, wire, or tape the ends down, and heat that over the stove, flipping often, until steam is pouring out every tiny crack or hole in the foil, then, leaving the foil on, find a way to crank, clamp, or tie down the section quickly to straighten it. Remember, some guys do this all in the fork of a tree with a campfire.
