Tiller Check for a Newbie

[Parnell]

I've never worked Hazel but if relatively strong tension/compression ratio is as described you may want to consider trying to "trap" the back...creating a trapezoidal cross section to maximize results, next time.  Moisture content and heat treating are very important.  You've done well, I'd enjoy your first success and hang on to that bow to look back on in time!

[JW_Halverson]

Personally I'd stick with what you have for fear of ruining it, and make another. It's a wise man (or woman  ) who knows when to quit.
Del

Del made a comment once that resonated with me and has become a precept I try to live by:  "Mended beyond repair". This bow will serve you well while the next one is emerging from the stave where it is currently hidden.  Like the cowboys out west here say, rub some dirt on it and walk it off!

Hazel as bow wood is relatively strong in tension but not so much in compression. A bow should be wide, kept crowned and have a flat belly. It's fast and comes in handy bow shaped staves. Finding a good stave can be difficult because the wood often grows twisted. The colour is a beautiful white.

That is a perfect description of an amazing little hazel bow that I own.  I would gladly post pics and reap heaps of praise and adulation for this sweet shooter....but too many people know that it was a gift to me from Del the Cat.  His pawprints are all over it!

[scp]

I would definitely heat treat the belly, as suggested by many here. If it gets to be too strong after that, I would also slightly trap the back as well. All in moderation.

[Cloudfeather]

I agree with leaving it be, despite the possibility of upping the weight via heat treating, recurves, etc. I've messed up a couple of bows when I first started because I just couldn't leave well enough alone.

Much better first attempt than mine, I must admit. You'll learn quickly and improve with all the info on these forums. Good luck.

[scp]

If she does not need to apply finishes to the bow immediately, she can always come back to it later with more experience.

[Del the cat]

That's a good point. It can be very satisfying to return to an old bow, rework it and improve it.
I reworked my first ever Yew ELB after about 40 years of learning and got it to shoot further than ever before
Del

[Springbuck]

Did turn out great.  It is bending a bit much, even for a pyramid, in the inner limbs just off the fades, but not too badly.  Of course, we should also have a front profile pic to really determine what full draw should look like.  Still, that's a heck of a first effort, and we're glad you are on board, Nance!

[Nance]

An update:
I cut two new hazel branches today. They are leaking fluids so I'm going to keep them outside for a few days until most of the weeping is over. I got a nice straight 4 cm thick branch to make a elb type bow from with a high crown and a flat belly. I'm not sure if I should make it bend through the handle or not. The bow limbs will taper evenly on the belly and the sides to make the longbow shape.


I cut a bigger one for my husband to try and a sapling for making a children's bow for my four year old daughter.

The first bow still shoots and it's a real beauty with the white wood.

[Del the cat]

Nice, for a longbow, err on the side of wide with a gently rounded belly rather than a high arched belly. have plenty of length too. I'd say let the entire bow work (full compass) to minimise the risk of the belly chrysalling.
Good luck and have fun.
Del
I meant to cut some Hazel but I've left it a bit late now.... there's always next winter.

[Nance]

It's a bit late for cutting wood I agree. There's a lot of spring growth in it and a lot of water. I took one branch so I don't think the plant will be hurt by it.
I meant a round back with a flat belly. Like a flatbow but with more elb like dimensions. Reversed D shape. I want to make it 30-40 pounds, maybe a bit more. That depends on both the wood and the muscles in my arms haha.

What bow length should I aim for?  I'm 5'9" and have a draw length of 27".
I want to use those beautiful horn nocks so those will add to the overall length too.

[Del the cat]

70"-72" should reasonable, I wouldn't go shorter than 70".
I always go 2" over to give me room to take an inch or so off if necessary.
Del

[George Tsoukalas]

Actually, Nance, cutting during the growing season is a good idea because the bark pops off easily then.
Tiller looks good.
I'd leave it.
Congratulations on your first.
Jawge

[Nance]

Should I debark it now? I heard that hazel does not tend to split when drying indoors.

[joachimM]

Debark and seal immediately with yellow wood glue.
You might even taper it immediately (leave the width to avoid warping) and then seal it. It will dry in a few weeks time. Monitor weight till it stops losing weight.

[Nance]

My fear with the wood glue is that it won't come off later. What is your experience with it?

Ps do you mean sealing the ends or the complete stave along the length?