Would you trust this splice? *More pics added

[make-n-break]

Title says it all. Two pieces of hickory butt spliced in the center of the handle. Then glued in six 3/8 oak dowels that run all the way through. Used TBIII. The handle riser is two pieces of red oak that total 1" thick so I know the riser won't be flexing. I imagine it will still be subject to some tension force?

The 'stave'  is 66" long, 2.5 wide, pyramid style. Handle is 5 inches long and 1-1/4 wide to give it some more glued area. I'll also be wrapping very tightly in two layers of jute/hemp/sisal. Going for I dunno.... 55-60 pounds give or take? I prefer heavier bows 70+  but I don't think I trust this splice to handle that much weight. Think she'll make it? Betting is open lol. Advice?

[ajooter]

I would glue another lam over the back of the handle as well to cover that butt splice.   I think you would probably be all right at 55#....maybe haha.  Only one way to find out 

[bradsmith2010]

no I would not trust it,,

[Dances with squirrels]

Nope.

[PatM]

No. You should try it just so we can confirm our intuition as to where it will pop even before it breaks outright.
   The dowels don't actually do much but create another option for breakage.

[J05H]

One more vote for no,  but I am curious to see what happens if you try it.

[willie]

no money on the bet,  if the fiber is used to wrap around the handle.....

but if you laid the fiber in glue, longituidnally down the back like plan B did on his meare heath, then I would be willing to wager some....

[make-n-break]

Well crap. I'm a little sad there arent more positives! I thought the dowels were a solid plan haha. I've only ever found one other hickory board this nice too.. So I really wanted it to become a shooter.

You better bet I'm gonna try though! I'll post pics after the explosion. Any more yes votes if I were to put a thin lam over the dowels and splice as ajooter mentions ? Any other remedies?

I've tried plant fiber backing before Willie and it was so dang messy and frustrating. I know it's just from inexperience but I definitely did not enjoy the process and I wouldn't look forward to doing it again.

Spose I could just slap a veneer over the top and get to going. My tiller tree has a long rope so I'm not afraid to bend this thing lol

[bubby]

As far as building bows that's not a splice. If it was mine I'd cut it at the butt joint, get a piece of 1-1/4" pipe and make a takedown

[sleek]

I am positive that will come apart. Probably at first brace.

You need to have 10 to 1 ration bottom riser glued on at minimum. Ten times longer than the bow is thick. Now, you have a perfect situation for bolt on limbs or do a scarf joint of some sort.

[DC]

Another no. Didn't you have enough length for a Z splice?

[willie]

redhawk got high marks for his two limb glued handle bow

you guys are being to hard on make-n-break's creative idea

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,55803.0.html

[Cloudfeather]

Not sure if I would trust it. But I would shape the handle before getting it braced. Then wrap it with braided fishing line and soak with CA glue.

[Del the cat]

I would glue another lam over the back of the handle as well to cover that butt splice.   I think you would probably be all right at 55#....maybe haha.  Only one way to find out 

+1
A lam over the back (feathered out nicely) will give a huge glue area and make it into a sensible joint. I've used this trick on Yew ELBs where the splice has been a bit short.
Del

[mikekeswick]

Glue an overlay over the back - not a veneer....like 3/16ths. round everything over and wrap the snot out of it with the strongest cord you've got.
Are the limbs 1 inch thick at the moment?