Author Topic: Would you trust this splice? *More pics added  (Read 8774 times)

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Offline bubby

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Re: Would you trust this splice?
« Reply #30 on: March 05, 2016, 02:24:36 pm »
That is so true willie
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline bushboy

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Re: Would you trust this splice?
« Reply #31 on: March 05, 2016, 03:36:06 pm »
The doubled up handle looks a bit short?i would shorten up the fades to 1-1/4".after tillering and finishing they will likely end up around 1-1/2" to 2 ".if the bow flexes in the fades at all it's over!i also like the idea of gluing some thing on the handle on the back side,but keep it inside the fade and handle area.good luck!
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline bushboy

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Re: Would you trust this splice?
« Reply #32 on: March 05, 2016, 03:42:19 pm »
I'm not sure of your experience level, so as to not offend.Pat B did and excellent build along a while back with a hickory backed lemonwood that really does a great job showing the handle to fade transition!very cool indeed!
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline make-n-break

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Re: Would you trust this splice?
« Reply #33 on: March 05, 2016, 04:13:41 pm »
No offense taken bushboy. I'm savvy on board bow fades. Take the handle/fades with a grain of salt right now. I cut a good bit of it off when I do the handle fade transition. I just like to have extra meat on there in the beginning. The handle is 5" long and the fades are 2.5 inches long. It just looks funny during glue up with the longer piece on there. I like gradual, round, long curves on my pyramids.

I went with a 3/16 flat sawn lam of hickory over the whole mess. Seasoned and milled by yours truly too!! No kiln wood. After the lam I'm actually pretty confident it's gonna hold, and I'm lowering my target weight to a solid 55 give or take. Started roughing out but time to take my GFs kiddo to the park. Quick Pic in a minute...
"When making a bow from board staves you are freeing a thing of dignity from the humiliation of static servitude." -TBB1

Offline make-n-break

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Re: Would you trust this splice? *More pics added
« Reply #34 on: March 05, 2016, 04:32:48 pm »
Attached is a rough example of the layout before I round everything off with long curves and here's a finished example of the style I use for my board bows. The top lam goes into the fade some but it will be feathered out gradually so that it's real thin out there on the inch or so into the fade.
"When making a bow from board staves you are freeing a thing of dignity from the humiliation of static servitude." -TBB1

Offline make-n-break

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Re: Would you trust this splice? *More pics added
« Reply #35 on: March 05, 2016, 04:43:27 pm »
Looking at the pencil line I drew now that it's on the screen it looks all jacked up, but you can see what I mean from the pic of the finished one. It just kinda comes together once the rasp hits it lol.
« Last Edit: March 05, 2016, 04:48:36 pm by make-n-break »
"When making a bow from board staves you are freeing a thing of dignity from the humiliation of static servitude." -TBB1

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Would you trust this splice? *More pics added
« Reply #36 on: March 10, 2016, 01:04:01 pm »
Hey, Make-n-break!  I saw this bow survived in the other thread.  I have a few ideas for you, since I have tried so many similar things just to see WHY it won't work.  :-)

If you add a handle like that, either with just a board or two butt spliced boards like you did, and want to add dowels, ANGLE the dowel holes. My best luck has been to angle them just a little, from close together on the belly near the handle, toward the tips as you come out the front.  Like this.  \ \  / /   if we say the back is up and handle is down. On a board to handle set up, this helps lock them down mechanically as the bow bends.  On butted boards it seems intuitively that opposite would be better, though. 

Also, instead of butting them, you can very easily do a simple slash or diagonal splice.  Just gives each board more length on the overlap.  It really improves the strength  (though you proved maybe we don't need it,)  You know how to handle fades, of course, and a front overlay helps and looks good, too.  You can flip one board,  stack them, and clamp them and make the same angle cuts at the same time.  Of course, you need that extra 3-4" in board length to begin with.

Lastly, when you get that handle shaped, I have a couple times wrapped the handle splices/joints with baling wire, then added the twine wrapping over the top of it.