Ocean Spray arrows help for a reward!

[Tracker0721]

I just read every post in this section regarding ocean spray back till like 07'. Still have questions. So here's the game, whoever gives the best description of how to make the arrows(pictures are a huge plus) and has the most agree with their method gets a gift as well as many thank you's. And the questions are:

1- if stripping all the bark off, does the brown cambrium layer need to be completely scraped off or is it okay to leave it? I think the shaft looks kinda cool with the brown splotches.

2- I cut and bundled in September- October and left the bark on, while scraping the bark off how careful do I have to be?

3- do I leave knots slightly raised or do I whittle/sand them down so the shaft is all round?

4- if the saplings are too stiff how far down can I whittle the shaft to get my spine closer? I'm already planning to leave the shaft a little longer but I believe I'll still need to do some thinning.

5- using heat to straighten, I understand they require pauses between straightening "sessions" but how long would be good enough? If I'm going through 20 arrows taking out the major bend first by the time I reach the 20th can I start again at 1?

6- what's the best way to finish ocean spray? I have gasket laquer, poly spray and wipe on, tru oil, and shellac, anything else from the store is just an hour drive to town away.

And let the best answer competition begin!

[Ed Brooks]

I just read every post in this section regarding ocean spray back till like 07'. Still have questions. So here's the game, whoever gives the best description of how to make the arrows(pictures are a huge plus) and has the most agree with their method gets a gift as well as many thank you's. And the questions are:

1- if stripping all the bark off, does the brown cambrium layer need to be completely scraped off or is it okay to leave it? I think the shaft looks kinda cool with the brown splotches. " I made one arrow with leaving part of the bark on and yes i also think it looks cool. however makes it harder to see in the brush after the shot."

2- I cut and bundled in September- October and left the bark on, while scraping the bark off how careful do I have to be? "Be really careful not to cut your fingers, other than that scrap away, and sand the shaft if need be."

3- do I leave knots slightly raised or do I whittle/sand them down so the shaft is all round? "I sanded them down, but now started cutting shoots without knots. makes cleaner arrows less work."

4- if the saplings are too stiff how far down can I whittle the shaft to get my spine closer? I'm already planning to leave the shaft a little longer but I believe I'll still need to do some thinning. "You can sand all the way to your spine"

5- using heat to straighten, I understand they require pauses between straightening "sessions" but how long would be good enough? If I'm going through 20 arrows taking out the major bend first by the time I reach the 20th can I start again at 1? " I cold straiten after I peel the bark off. as for heat and reheat, you can do that but it seems better to let the 1st one set a day or so IMO anyway"

6- what's the best way to finish ocean spray? I have gasket laquer, poly spray and wipe on, tru oil, and shellac, anything else from the store is just an hour drive to town away. "I have used a bunch of different finishes i do like Poly, & now have found Lacquer at 3.50 compared to10.00., I believe its pretty much up to you tho. kinda a to each his own." I just want to protect my arrows long enough for me to loose them. 
Good Luck! Ed

And let the best answer competition begin!

[Pat B]

You can make a shoot arrow with the bark left on, with just the cambium, with just bare wood and you can take that bare wood down until te arrow is spined correctly. As long as any removal is not drastic; like no divots, etc. You can also sand down and small branches, etc that might be on the shaft.
 After 20 shafts straightened should be long enough but if it is the least bit warm you might loose the straightening you started. I like to be sure straightened shafts are completely cooled before starting over on it. Any regular arrow finish should work just fine. I've used water based poly, Tru-Oil and pitch varnish(for primitive arrows), all with good results. I've sprayed, dipped and wiped on finishes, all worked fine.

[Sasquatch]

1,2&3,  scrape off the bark, and file down the knots smooth.  Cambium is ok but will not finish well. take it off with 80 grit sand paper.

4  you can essentially take them as far as needed( just more work).  Make sure you remove wood evenly from all sides and over the whole shaft.
5.  just use the heat till they are straight but dont scorch the wood to the point of cracking.  But they are dry so that should not be a problem.
6.  OS is just wood so it is up to you with regard to finish.  I like spray finish cause it is easy.

[make-n-break]

This might not apply directly to OS, but I make a lot of shoot arrows from all different species in my area. I am absolutely brutal with them. I only cut in the winter when sap is down so that probably helps. I cut em, strip the bark off on the spot in vigorous fashion with a knife held at 90 degrees to the shaft. Then I'll start up my wood stove and get them speed drying. After a couple days of sitting by the stove I'll size them.

No care is taken whatsoever when sizing. I will violate all the branches and just rasp them to an even 21/64 using a 21/64 hole drilled in a piece of wood. They completely dry down to 5/16 which I like. In my experiments hardwood shoots tend to be much higher spine than spun shafts. An 11/32 shoot shaft is usually really stiff. I don't spine or weigh of them but 5/16 dried flies nicely for me with bows around 65#. After it's rapid dried, rough straightened, and sized I'll tie them into bundles and let them sit for about a week.

Then I'll start up a fire or use the heat gun for a more thorough straightening. I'll do this once a day for about 3-4 days and then fletch them up. Doing it this rapidly will require some periodic straightening the first couple weeks of shooting. The entire process from start to finish takes about two weeks per batch.

Also, doing it this rapidly will cause some checking so cut them long. I cut 36-40 inch shoots and they become 28" arrows. You'll lose some too due to checking and some are impossible to straighten. I cut two dozen and expect to get a 10-12 out of them.

Hardwood Shoot arrows are much stronger than doweled shafts in my experience. They're just more work (and worth it). I'll break 12 lumber shafts before I break one shoot shaft, but I can make 12 lumber shafts in the time it takes to size one shoot shaft.

I really think you're overthinking the process. Granted, I'm particularly brutal with mine, but I've never had one break outside of a direct impact with a large rock. You don't have to think of them as a delicate thing. Shoots are very resilient even to severe grain violations. Leave a little bark on if you like the look. Doesn't matter.