advice on this locust bow

[Puckaway]

I'm working on my first black locust selfbow. these are the dimensions at this point: 64" tip to tip, handle section 4" layed out 1" up from center and 3" below. 1.5" fades to 1 3/8" at widest flowing to mid limbs, and then tapering to roughly 5/8" tips at this point. Everything seemed to be going well until I decided to heat treat the belly and flip the tips. Tips are 1/2" thick. I used dry heat (heatgun) and olive oil The first tip seemed to go okay, bu the second splintered a bit on the belly side. When I took it off the form I noticed the back looks to have sustained too much compression and crysalled. I think I got most of the belly slinter rasped out with plenty of wood to spare, but now I'm worried about the integrity of the back. Both tips buckled like this. I'm wondering if I should just bob the tips off leaving me with about 58" or try to procede with what I have. I've got sinew and rawhide I could back it with, but have never done either, and bein locust, I'm not so confident in my tillering. I've been dreading tillering since I've heard locust is so prone to fret. I think this bow may have a lot of potential if I can keep it together!! I'm a newbie at bending tips so any advice would be great. I'm thinking they should have been thinner..

[Puckaway]

Here are the tips

[George Tsoukalas]

I guess phots would be good. Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

I see them.

[George Tsoukalas]

Those areas are definitely in trouble. I think your idea of cutting of those tips is a good one. YOu may be able to cut a little less than you figure. Remember the last 6 or so inches don't bend much.
Sorry. Can't be much help. You have to decide.
Jawge

[bradsmith2010]

straight tips ,, shoot well,,, I recommend them ,,
its hard to tell how much of the tip is damaged,,or how severe the damage is,,
you could put overlays on them
you could cut them and make a shorter bow,,
you could cut them shorter and splice recurves,,
you could sinew back,, etc etc etc,,

my first choice would be to cut it shorter and make a straight tip bow,, not because that is the best,, but at your experience level,, it would give you a good chance at getting a shooter,, work on the fine points as you gain experience,,

[huisme]

+1 brad, if I wanted to test the strength of the area I'd just see how much weight I could put on the area past the wrinkles and I might run with it but you might as well play it safe and spread the bend over a greater area next time

[Red Tailed Hawk]

If you are going to cut it down to 58" I would tiller the bow to bend through the handle. That is if you are not planning on sinewing the back

[BowEd]

 I think you might be headed for a bendy handle bow.Dry bending BL can be a task especially to a sharper bend on the tips.Steam worked for my statics on BL.I know that's hind sight but I've been where you are now too.

[Puckaway]

If I whack the tips, should I sinew it at floor tiller, or past that point? Should I taper the limbs at the new mid limb to tips or from the fades pyramid style?

[Puckaway]

My handle section is narrowed already. I think bendy may be out.

[BowEd]

I see ok.Whether you narrow from midlimb to tip will be revealed on your floor tiller.Then going with a straight limb tip.Would'nt induce a whole lot of reflex on it but that's up to you.What was your draw length?I did'nt see.What poundage do you want?Personally I would take it at least an ounce under Badgers' mass principle and then sinew it with a little over an ounce of sinew for sure.Giving it a moderate reflex of not over 3" before tillering.That's just my two cents worth and that's all.

[Puckaway]

I draw 26" and would like to get 45-50#

[Puckaway]

I'll knock those tips off sometime tomorrow and see what I've got left. Lesson learned for me. Oh well. this gives me a shot to work with sinew so its all good. I've been waiting for the right project.

[wizardgoat]

You can get 26 draw from 58", how narrow is the handle?