Author Topic: Nock travel  (Read 4614 times)

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Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock travel
« Reply #15 on: February 24, 2016, 05:55:09 pm »
DC, I think my last post should answer your last question. If not, let me know.

By the way, you need a line drawn to indicate perfect nock travel as the bow is drawn... not a line drawn parallel with the shaft sticking out in front of the handle. It's good that it helped enlighten you, but what are you going to do when the bow is drawn farther and there's not enough arrow out front to get a good read on it?

The bow's limbs can be balanced in strength with no arrow on the string by adjusting their strength so the nock point comes down a line drawn on the wall behind the tree to indicate perfect nock travel. If I was home I'd post a picture, but I'm at work on my phone.
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline DC

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Re: Nock travel
« Reply #16 on: February 24, 2016, 06:04:02 pm »
DWS   Do you clamp your bow to the tree or is it free to wobble around?

Offline willie

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Re: Nock travel
« Reply #17 on: February 24, 2016, 06:42:01 pm »
DWS-

thanks for taking the time to explain your insights and methods. Your explanation about limb timing is..... timely.     If you have a moment when you get home, a peek at your tillering set-up would be appreciated.

willie

Offline DC

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Re: Nock travel
« Reply #18 on: February 24, 2016, 06:49:52 pm »
I think I've been chasing my tail. When I took the pictures I had the arrow nocked 3/8" above 90 degrees. Further investigation shows that as you move the nock point up from 90 the tip of the arrow goes up (rocks)as you draw it. What I did to sort myself out was mark the center of the grip and then a mark on the string a 90 degrees to that. So now I've got the arrow dead center of the bow. In spite of the different length limbs the arrow came straight back. Then I tried 2" above and below center. The arrow came straight back in both cases. Then I tried "raising" the nock point on both sides. On both the more I "raised" the nock point the worse the rocking became. I just went out and tried raising the nock point when the arrow is at dead center. I get the same result. So it appears the the rocking I was seeing was just a function of raising the nock point. So it looks like my bow is well balanced, unlike it's owner :) and I just wasted a bunch of your time.

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock travel
« Reply #19 on: February 24, 2016, 07:19:55 pm »
I wouldn't do it that way... center of the grip... since I won't shoot it from there. I check relative limb balance holding things how they'll be shot... otherwise it isn't relative.

I don't clamp the bow to the tree, but it generally doesn't rock in the cradle unless limb balance is off a fair amount.... or unless bow center and the string fulcrum are far apart.
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline DC

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Re: Nock travel
« Reply #20 on: February 24, 2016, 07:46:07 pm »
I knew someone would object to center of the grip ;D ;D. I only did that to get a baseline to work both ways. Any work I do will be based on the proper position.

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Nock travel
« Reply #21 on: February 24, 2016, 08:09:11 pm »
Alright then. Hey, at least you know I'm paying attention  ;)
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline missilemaster

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Re: Nock travel
« Reply #22 on: February 25, 2016, 01:17:46 pm »
Interesting, but keep in mind that when you release the arrow when shooting, it lifts off the shelf a bit, so it is essentially straight again, just higher.
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