Arrow shaft maker/time saver

[BowEd]

Here's another way of shaft making that I've been meaning to make for a while and have finally gotten done.It's probably been shown before but I hav'nt seen it.Speed drill/router with a round 1/2" fluted bit/and a guide jig.Glad there are some inventive minds out there cause it's a time saver.A person starts out with a square stock of 3/8" at least 33" long into a 1/2" hole then to 3/8" holes in blocks all in line to stabilize the shaft as it's turning.The rounded tip of the square stock goes into the speed drill.Turn the router on/turn your speed drill on high and slowly advance the shaft through the holes in the blocks.It's not so primitive but then is a file and sand paper or a strap iron and screw gun any more primitive?Anyway a shaft is done in about 5 minutes or so after sanding and spining etc.Once the type of wood is decided for yourself that you want in terms of finished weight and spine it goes fast compared to the old way I used to make them.Local woods on the testing block are walnut,honey locust,black locust,KCT,hickory,ash,and maple so far.Hav'nt tried dogwoods yet but am pretty sure it'll do those too.Birch should be a good candidate but will have to go get a board from the lumber yard.I'll keep records of what turns into what.Note...If you make this get at least a 3 bladed router bit.Maybe should of put this in the build-along section.

[BowEd]

Future arrow shafts......The scurge tree of my area.The thorns flatten tires on trucks,tractors,and lame up cattle constantly.Might be usable bow wood but there are trees here for that that are better than them.Prolific volunteer replanter by animals eating the pods.The wood is pretty but a tad brittle for bows.Hope the wood makes good shafts because I'd be doing everyone a favor getting rid of these.

[Knoll]

I like it!
Blocks attached to fence?

[BowEd]

Yes Knoll.I did that with epoxy and clamps.Say if you like maple shafts in the lower 40's in spine.I've got about 7 dozen 3' by 3/8" square stock you might want.They still weigh out a little over 500 grains on a 30"  round shaft @ 23/64".

[Lumberman]

Nice! I've got a coworker  with a router so I was thinking about putting one of those together, hate to use other people's stuff though. I made some walnut shafts that are going to be really nice once finished; I was curious if you leave the either end thicker for the impact from string or target?

[BowEd]

Made the jig out of oak too or any other hard wood will work....even hedge.....lol.

[BowEd]

You lost me Lumberman.Like a pinch type finger release?These will make parallel shafts.Could start out thicker adjusting jig then you'd need to sand the middle to your spine.It would take longer.

[Lumberman]

Alright thanks, I read somewhere the other day that I needed to leave the ends at least 7/16 for impact. Had not seen that on here. See more about barreling them if anything

[Knoll]

Some sorta slot in plywood base so ya can move fence closer/further from router bit, thus fine tuning arrow shaft diameter achieved?

Lower 40's spine would likely be in ballpark for my mid-40's drawing bows! Especially if leave shaft length a bit longish.

[BowEd]

Also you can taper the back 8 or 10 inches to the nock to be more forgivable past the strike plate by sanding but usually I don't really see the need for it myself or I don't see much difference I mean shooting.Barrel shaping them is possible too but through sanding.Full length taper too.It all depends what you want for weight and spine in a shaft.Customized shafts for yourself is the goal here.Hitting what you aim at too.....lol.You can be as picky as you want.I'm not into decorating shafts much.I break and lose too many.Although I do hit the mark fairly regular but take outlandish shots occasionally.Just having fun.The bamboo and cane shoots would'nt work in this.I've got those here too.

[Lumberman]

Hitting what I aim for would be ideal haha,  like the one you put on that 6 pointer! 

[BowEd]

Yes Knoll you got it.A very small slot there.In the base plywood.Does'nt take much.If your drill press can go up tall enough you drill the blocks all in line from an 8" piece then cut them to 2" lengths.The long piece of jig is 25"/Your first block has a half inch hole through it[3/8" square stock fits just right in a 1/2" hole]/the next one 3/4" along long piece/the next one 3.5"/the next one 12" with 3/8" holes.They are all at least 1" thick by 2" long.The plywood base is 12" by 30".Drill a hole in plywood table 1" 3" from front edge of plywood and 6" from the side edges for base of router to attatch to.

[BowEd]

Well seems like everyone gets their turn sometime or another if they stay at it.This next year I'll shoot a yearling if that comes to be.Fine with me.You know what they say about luck....Its' when preperation and opportunity collide.

[BowEd]

Knoll....I'll send a couple of dozen of those maple squares if you'll pay  the postage.Should'nt cost much really.PM me your address.

[Knoll]

pm sent. THANKS!