Author Topic: Shoot Shafts  (Read 3765 times)

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Offline perry f.

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Shoot Shafts
« on: January 27, 2016, 10:54:56 am »
Looking for info on shoot shafts. I'm in southern Indiana, I'm thinking dogwood, cherry, multi flora rose, etc. My question is what size do you cut? I cut some multi flora rose once around 3/8" but after dry it looks to be under 1/4". I don't have a spine tester but I'm not sure they would spine very much. Any info on shoot shafts is appreciated... I plan to cut some in the near future.

Offline Buck67

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #1 on: January 27, 2016, 11:19:49 am »
Take a 3/8" open end wrench with you next time.  If the shoot shaft is too small for the wrench then it's probably not worth messing with.  You want shoots that are 3/8" or slightly larger.  You can always take more wood off the shoot but you can't add any.  Avoid ones with abrupt kinks, no way you will get that shoot to straighten.  Make sure that you take something to measure length with.  You want a shoot that is 3/8" at the front and big enough to put a decent nock in at the back.  Take zip strips with you.  Bundle the shoots in bunches with the zip strips, that will make them easier to carry and will help them to dry straight. 

Offline Aaron H

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #2 on: January 27, 2016, 11:35:42 am »
^^^ Good advice.  I also like to bring something along to carry them in, one of those carry bags for a camping chair are about the perfect size.

Offline perry f.

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #3 on: January 27, 2016, 12:00:45 pm »
Thanks for the info, that's exactly what I did when cutting the multi flora rose shafts. I took a 3/8" wrench and all but now they seem way to small after the drying process. I guess I need to make a spine tester and see what they spine

Offline Knoll

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #4 on: January 27, 2016, 12:01:26 pm »
^^^^^ camping chair bag is good idea too!
... alone in distant woods or fields, in unpretending sproutlands or pastures tracked by rabbits, even in a bleak and, to most, cheerless day .... .  I suppose that this value, in my case, is equivalent to what others get by churchgoing & prayer.  Hank Thoreau, 1857

Offline Pat B

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #5 on: January 27, 2016, 12:22:57 pm »
I usually cut hardwood shoots and cane at about 3/8" or slightly over that. It works well for arrows from about 453 to 653.
 Be sure you cut only second year growth or older. If it has small branches on the shoot(or rose cane) it is at least 2 year old growth.
 Both dogwood(shrub type, red osier, etc.) and wild rose make good arrows. Cherry, for me, was hard to keep straight.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline perry f.

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #6 on: January 27, 2016, 06:50:23 pm »
Pat do I need 3/8" mid shaft or at point end? Also, why should I only cut 2nd year growth?

Offline lebhuntfish

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #7 on: January 27, 2016, 07:13:43 pm »
Just book marking this. I want to keep up with this post.
Patrick
Once an Eagle Scout, always an Eagle Scout!

Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!

riverrat

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #8 on: January 27, 2016, 07:40:23 pm »
about 3/8 or a tad under that. you should have honey suckle, bladder nut , and indigo also if you have any water ways near ya. Tony

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #9 on: January 27, 2016, 08:43:00 pm »
I like them 3/8" at the nock end which is the upper end for me. Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com/shoots.html
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline jeffp51

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #10 on: January 27, 2016, 09:47:13 pm »
I usually cut hardwood shoots and cane at about 3/8" or slightly over that. It works well for arrows from about 453 to 653.
 Be sure you cut only second year growth or older. If it has small branches on the shoot(or rose cane) it is at least 2 year old growth.
 Both dogwood(shrub type, red osier, etc.) and wild rose make good arrows. Cherry, for me, was hard to keep straight.

Pat, do you have any pictures of second year dogwood that is ready to cut?  I have a hard time picturing what you mean by small branches--at some point don't they become too big and create knots and kinks in the shaft?  Or do you end up using the parts below the branches?

Offline perry f.

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #11 on: January 27, 2016, 10:03:51 pm »
George, if yours are 3/8" at nock end, what do they typically measure at the point end

Offline Pat B

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #12 on: January 27, 2016, 11:37:11 pm »
Jeff, the first year a shoot usually grows to its ultimate height and puts out leaves. The second year small branches come from buds near last's leaf scars. After that growing season is when you harvest the shoot for arrows.  I don't have red osier growing around here and don't have pics. Do a search here on PA or Google.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Shoot Shafts
« Reply #13 on: January 28, 2016, 10:38:55 am »
Perry, not sure.
I just plane down the point end  to get it to 11/32.
I just use the shafts that are too narrow for my daughter.
Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!