decrowning plum?

[sapling bowyer]

I recently cut a plum sapling that is 2 inch diameter on the thick end and 1.5 on the thin end. I've heard that decrowning a sapling stave may be crucial. Do I have to decrown my stave? I would prefer to leave the back as it is because of less work but mainly because I'm afraid to violate the back. Just in case it helps, my draw length is 23 inches, the stave is 50 inches. Also I plan on making the bow narrow. Also are there any big performance differences between crowned and decrowned?

[joachimM]

If you decrown it, I would back it. 50" is (too) short for a crowned sapling bow. 60" seems better for that width.
In my experience, the grain of sapling plums often spirals a bit, so if you decrown it, you also risk violating the back fibers quite a bit.
I've used coppiced plum staves of similar dimensions (2" wide, 50") but backed them. The last one still broke after some time, because the backing was too thin.

Another plum sapling I made was 55", 2.3 cm (a tad under 1") wide at the handle, longbowish design. Drew 30# at 25". Still holding fine after >1000 shots. 

[Badger]

  I would splice the two pieces. Plum makes a great bow. A 62" or so would give you something you might use for years. I have found plum will tolerate a high crown pretty well and not take much set. 1 3/8 wide is conservative for a 50# bow. I have also decrowned with good results.

[Jim Davis]

Steve, your upper case 1 may confuse him...

[sapling bowyer]

Ok thank you. Can I debark this plum while the ends are sealed without sealing the back? Will the back crack? If so can I oil the back regularly to slow the drying process? Sorry about a lot of questions. I'm a beginner so...

[Springbuck]

 If it's gonna be narrow anyway, certainly don't bother decrowning.  I've done hunting weight bows from 4-5 species that were that small diameter a crown.  But, 50" is pretty short.  I'm with Badger: if you split it perfectly down the middle, splice it, and add a handle (or don't) 1" thick is still thick enough to do a lot with.

Besides splitting, on a stave that thick and that long it's possible to saw it in half with a LONG diagonal cut, then splicing what was the tip end and the butt end.  This helps in preserving more thickness closer to the handle, and since tips are going to be thinner anyway....... but it is a pretty tough trick to pull off without your cut wandering (with a hand-saw or bandsaw), or requires a darn straight stave, with a tablesaw.