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Author Topic: TD sleeve tid-bit  (Read 2660 times)

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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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TD sleeve tid-bit
« on: January 19, 2016, 11:04:06 am »
Im sure Im not the only guy who has had a sleeved bow break. The job of getting the old portions out of the sleeves is a total bear. I use my drill press to do most, then a rat tail file, then sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease. I was cleaning my shop a few weeks back and found a broken bow under my bench that had a sleeve set installed. I tossed it in the fire with the rest of the junk I was hauling out. I pulled it out after the fire burned off and found a pristine set of sleeves with no damage done, glue and all was burned out. That's what I call easy. If you ever find yourself in my spot? Try burning it out.

This will be my 3rd attempt with the same sleeve set. I had an unhealthy hickory back blow the first time and screwed up the back during installation on an osage self version the second time. It happens  :)
« Last Edit: January 19, 2016, 11:15:49 am by PEARL DRUMS »
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Offline TimBo

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #1 on: January 19, 2016, 11:43:17 am »
I've always wondered about that.  Good to know there is an easier way!
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Offline PatM

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #2 on: January 19, 2016, 12:28:30 pm »
I'd be worried about altering the properties of the metal. A slightly easier way is to drill down the center and then use a chisel to split out the rest. You can then soak the sleeve in a solvent bath to more or less dissolve your epoxy.
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #3 on: January 19, 2016, 12:32:36 pm »
The steel portion is hardened now, Pat. I can hear it. The fit between them did not change at all. That is huge indicator not much changed in their properties. I literally did no cleaning to these. They are pristine in and out.
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Offline PatM

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2016, 12:45:36 pm »
I meant that the annealing process might have softened the metals so that they are very vulnerable to distortion while fitting. That seems to be the case anyway. Not sure how those metals were treated in the first place though.
n.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2016, 01:03:45 pm »
I pulled the steel sleeve from the fire and tossed it in the snow for a rapid cool. That should have hardened it rather than anneal it. Had I left it to cool on its own it would have softened. My guess? The steel sleeve is 35-40 Rc now. 
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

blackhawk

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2016, 01:16:59 pm »
Bring it on over to my work and ill hardness test it...i do it several times a day at work....this steeler is betting its fine  ;)
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Offline Fred Arnold

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2016, 01:21:29 pm »
The only one I've ever taken apart was from a BBO and I used a heat gun and had to beat the hell out of it. I don't relish trying it again but at 40 bucks a pop for take down sleeves I'll do my darndest to get them apart. Next time I'm using your fire trick although the last one I did salvage the osage and put new bamboo on the back.
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Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #8 on: January 19, 2016, 01:25:29 pm »
Sleeve bows don't bend in the handle so there is not much stress involved. I burned out my last one out with a propane torch, no problems.

You ever have a burned out sleeve bow fail Pat?
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #9 on: January 19, 2016, 01:30:38 pm »
They start as simple soft steel pipe. Probably the nastiest, cheapest steel pipe they can get. It is near 18-20 Rc. My guess? I made it better than original. Bronze isn't changed my heat like steel is. I'm not concerned with the male portion anyway. The wood and steel sleeve would have to break, and that's not happening.
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Offline PatM

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #10 on: January 19, 2016, 01:42:17 pm »
I didn't mention failure. ;) No question that the strength requirements aren't that much, particularly for typical weight bows.
   Does rapid cooling actually do much for lower quality metal? Knifemakers would say it doesn't but that's a more demanding application.
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #11 on: January 19, 2016, 01:55:22 pm »
Rapid cooling after intense heat will harden all steel to some extent. The higher the carbon content the harder it can get, to a point. 58-62 Rc cant be dented by a ball peen hammer. You can quench with oil or water and get different results, but harder steel all the same.
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Offline mullet

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #12 on: January 19, 2016, 05:15:19 pm »
well, while everybody debates the hardness of the sleeve that won't fail anyway, you can also put that section in the freezer and the epoxy will get brittle and fall apart. Then I just knocked the two pieces of wood out with a wooden punch and hammer.
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #13 on: January 19, 2016, 05:59:23 pm »
Good call Eddie. Not sure MT13  would crack in the freezer?
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline bushboy

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Re: TD sleeve tid-bit
« Reply #14 on: January 19, 2016, 06:14:39 pm »
Science nerd like,ferrous metals like carbon steel will harden with heat and a Quick cool.nonferrous. Metals like aluminum and copper will become very soft and annealed,very bendy.been a while since I've been to school though! Lol
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