pso link=topic=55520.msg754883#msg754883 date=1451488571]
hello Tim, really nice now, like it a lot.
in the second picture, didnt you cut the lateral grain of the stave? shouldnt you have followed the natural curve of the grain? sorry for my questions, but i am still a rookie...
regards,
Joćo from Portugal
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Hey, I can answer this question, although my answer may not be HIS answer....
First, elm is tough, stringy, and does not like to break unless really dry or eaten by bugs or fungus.
Second, the diameter of tree that came from gives you a pretty high crown on the back. It looks to me that he purposely used the CROWN of the stave as a centerline, rather than following the grain markings. This is good. Having the crown run down the middle of the bow saves all kinds of trouble, like avoiding side to side dips, or limbs that want to bend to one side, etc...
This works because elm is so strong in tension to begin with, AND the highest part of the crown experiences the most tension strain. As long as the grain at the crown is intact, it does not matter if it is a few degrees angle off of perfectly straight lengthwise. Obviously, a LOT of twist or a BIG wiggle you might want to follow it perfectly. But, the grain run off, if there is any, is away from the crown, wrapping from back toward belly where the bow is less thick, and once you round off the corners, it isn't under too much strain.
I use this strategy with "small" woods that twist or wiggle a lot where I live, like apple shoots from neglected apple trees, serviceberry, mulberry suckers, hawthorn, and stuff. I quit trying it if the twist is severe, or I follow the grain closely if the wiggle is severe.
