Not sure about this profile

[bownarra]

How about like Gary Davis does his an ever increasing reflex out to the tips evenly.Then all you'd have to worry about is the thickness tapering during tillering to be dead on.

That's the best way to add reflex to a wood bow. Smooth and even. Also heating up more than once is a big no no in my eyes as it weakens the woods resistance to compression. I know because i've messed about trying to get the perfect shape on sage billets only to have them chyrsal right where the 'excessive' heat was used (tiller was perfect). I now get my profile and heat treat all at the same time and aim to do it only once.


Beadman - your friend is right to a degree but if you have a messed up FG bow it's down to you. If there is twist you haven't got your layout straight or have reduced one edge too much. If you do everything right you don't get messed up FG bows. A FG bow is all about design and execution if you get those right you will have a bow - the same can't be said for wood only bows...so many variables that even with many years experience you can still get bitten when the wood says NO!

[PEARL DRUMS]

How about like Gary Davis does his an ever increasing reflex out to the tips evenly.Then all you'd have to worry about is the thickness tapering during tillering to be dead on.

That's the best way to add reflex to a wood bow. Smooth and even. Also heating up more than once is a big no no in my eyes as it weakens the woods resistance to compression. I know because i've messed about trying to get the perfect shape on sage billets only to have them chyrsal right where the 'excessive' heat was used (tiller was perfect). I now get my profile and heat treat all at the same time and aim to do it only once.

I don't agree. Early reflex is rarely a good idea, very rarely. It just makes the narrowed section work that much harder and your bow will take more set. Why reflex a section of limb that is already full width and the most stable section on each limb? And, if your getting compression fractures in osage, you have a lot bigger fish to fry than heat application. I have heated, re-heated, heated gain and then heated more osage bows than I will ever remember. None have chrysalled, ever. Your wood is wet or your tiller sucks if you find compression fractures in osage.

As far as Ed's comments on FG. He is referring to th eease in which self limbs can be corrected as opposed to FG limbs.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I have no suggestions on what to do with it, I'm a simple man therefore only attempt simple bows. All I can say is just do something with it even if it's wrong Pearly,  just looks funny to me.

Tell you what McGregor. If there is ANY way to make a bendy handle 3 piece, I'll help you with it

[Pappy]

I am like Greg, no idea what to tell ya ,but feel sure you will figure it out, on the heat/reheat issue. Done it hundreds of time with Osage, no problems. In fact I have to do it on most bows
just to tweak them a bit after they get to brace. The only Osage I have had fret was backed
and I guessed it just over powered the belly, it wasn't mine but I was involved in the build.  ;)Good luck Chris, should turn out nice and looking forward to seeing the finished product.
 Pappy

[BowEd]

Yes I agree on both points about FG  and wood and was taking that point for granted about layout and construction.He knows that too.This friend of mine pushes the envelope on FG bows.Using carbon,degree of reflex,etc.I stay out of it with him and FG bows.He does agree about the levered bows efficiency though.....lol.The relativity I'm pointing out too is that different woods have strong and weak properties where they are used and that happens in FG bows too.I don't like to reheat bows either especially in the working areas,but have done it many times with mostly good results and durability.Getting it done all at once is the best.I think Chris's bow will be a sweet bow to shoot,durable,and a real eye catcher.Using different woods that exscel in their properties where they are used.Very cool.Someday I might try that procedure of construction.I'm pretty sure he's looking for a more rounded type profile at full draw with the deflex in the handle,and I like that.The speed part will all depend on how much reflex he will be able to retain with the efficiency of tillering.It'll be fun and an experience to watch the construction.

[missilemaster]

I think the bend needs to be more gradual, and get tighter in radius as it reaches the limb tip. Easier to tiller, easier on the eyes ! But, thats whats nice about using slef limbs, A little heat, a little pressure and you got it!

[PEARL DRUMS]

That's the plan Cody. Keep your phone nearby this weekend

[Buckeye Guy]

Lever bow ?
could be exciting

[chamookman]

Ah - the red hot-line phone to the Misslemaster Commisioner Gorden  . Good luck with this one Pearly !

[Pago]

I like that profile, I would check it out strung before I changed a thing.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I ended up rolling the tips over a bit farther to match the existing reflex. Both limbs match and look much better bow. I am adding overlays for the bezel to sit flush. I ran out of Uni Bond and tried TB3 in a pinch, that didn't work so I chiseled them back off and will wait until I get a new can of epoxy. I was hoping to have the limbs bolted on by the end of this weekend.

[BowEd]

Bezel....Is that a bow making term?......lol.Is that on the tip?You mean a slanted taper on the on the limb tip and then horn overlays put on to make it even on top again?You got the limbs matched......Great.Bet that too much turkey is slowing you down.....heh.