Author Topic: Backing for cherry  (Read 5771 times)

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Offline ekalavya

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Backing for cherry
« on: October 31, 2015, 06:09:25 am »
i heard and read several times that cherry needs a backing , because cherry
should be good in pressure but weak in draw.

i thought why not use another suitable wood for the backing ... maybe cut or
taken from another tree with intact back and then glueing it on with normal
wood glue or so.

However , I got no clue, which wood would be suitable and how thick it should be.
Would 3/16" and any wood good in draw do it ?

All I read until now concerning the topic was a russian text "igonina i v izgotovlenie ostyatskogo luka"
which was a pain to translate for me --- and some parts still remain a mystery for me.
There birch is used and its just half as thick as the pressure wood - taken from some kind of pine or
spruce.

Offline bushboy

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #1 on: October 31, 2015, 09:08:38 am »
Not sure how using a sawn stave would work because of the crown, unless it was a very large tree? Never tried it,but rock maple would be my first choice for cherry.i did one with white oak slat that worked well.think pat m made note of that method in the past.
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline Eric Krewson

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #2 on: October 31, 2015, 09:11:09 am »
The late and great Jimmy Taylor made thousands of hickory backed cherry bows so I guess hickory would be a good choice.

Offline PatM

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #3 on: October 31, 2015, 09:40:39 am »
Any "good" tension wood will match up well with Cherry. A single growth ring backing is fine. Crown doesn't matter and in fact might be preferable.
 I don't like knots in my bows so if I run into a grown over knot that's going to be in the finished bow I'll just keep reducing until it's gone and turn the bow into a backing strip instead.
 I only cut wood that has no visible knots externally although no tree is not going to have grown over knots deep in the stave.

Offline ekalavya

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2015, 09:52:11 am »
Thanks for the answers.
Rock maple is what is called sugar maple (Acer saccharum) with saccharum
meaning sugar. However , it does not grow where I live, although other kinds
of maple are there like Acer platanoides and Acer pseudoplatanus.

Is there a test I can/should make to test the qualities of the backing wood?

(probably something like take a 32" long and 1/2" thick and wide piece out of the stave
and then bent it until it shows 1 or 2 " of set)

Offline PatM

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2015, 10:26:10 am »
I've never been impressed with those two types of Maples judging by the way they snap every time we get a strong wind here where they are planted as ornamentals.
 I think you get Maple more similar to our Rock Maple where you are.

Offline bushboy

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #6 on: October 31, 2015, 11:32:28 am »
I did a hickory backed black cherry leaving the hickory to thick at 1/4" or less thick it shot ok but not exceptional.it developed chrysals after a couple hundred shots.i like maple because of a lower s.g and less bend resistance than hickory imho, although opinions may differ.
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #7 on: October 31, 2015, 01:46:18 pm »
I've had success with thin quartersawn hickory backing strips on black cherry. As thin as 1/16". The thicker the backing, the greater the chance of it crushing the belly surface wood.

For these bows, I decrowned the cherry staves, brought the working limbs to about 5/8" thick at the dips, tapering to 1/2" at the tips, and then glued in a nice gentle overall reflex. Titebond type wood glue will work well if the gluing surfaces are relatively smooth, and a good epoxy like Smooth On or Unibond works great if the surfaces are rougher due to grinding or toothing plane work.

These cherry bows are lively of cast and feather light to carry.
Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline ekalavya

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #8 on: October 31, 2015, 03:02:11 pm »
How difficult was it too decrown ?

The germans i asked , all say ... maybe one out of twenty will work ... the rest is lost ,
so better forget about decrowning.

-http://bogensportwiki.info/index.php?title=Datei:Decrownen.jpg

they even put a picture in their wiki for explanation. Don't know why they almost ever mess up
with decrowning.

Offline bubby

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #9 on: October 31, 2015, 04:46:46 pm »
I like maple backers, why not just use rawhide
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline ekalavya

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #10 on: October 31, 2015, 05:03:45 pm »
raw hide ... i heard rumours that there is suitable raw hide in dog toys ... dog chewing toys ...

what is your prefered source of raw hide ?

is the raw hide of chickens and geese suitable/useful for backing ?

are there any side effects , like shrinking with sinew backing ?

after all those questions ... just going to the woods once again and getting a suitable tree
at least seems easier ... although this "decrowning" seems to be such a problem ....

Offline bubby

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #11 on: October 31, 2015, 05:11:08 pm »
The chew toys aren't the best source of rawhide you should be able to get it at a leather supplier in two inch wide strips or from echo archery or three rivers maybe even eBay
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Bryce

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #12 on: October 31, 2015, 05:16:27 pm »
Sinew backed cherry makes a damn fine bow. For lumber white oak, and hickory are my top choices
Clatskanie, Oregon

Offline ekalavya

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #13 on: November 02, 2015, 02:57:41 pm »
I thought about it. Until the cherry is dry there is plenty of time deciding for the backing.

Some guy, mentioned different forms/cross sections for tension strong wood and for compression
strong/tension weak wood.
-https://primitivebows.wordpress.com/articles/tension-and-compression-some-theory/

There are even paper, burlap and bark backings , which have the advantage of easier
available backing material. (don't know how good they are or said to be)

Usually  when splitting a stave into two halves , then flatting them at the splitted site and then
glueing them together should be no problem ... into making it a bow. So why not replace one
splitted half with another wood good in tension. Seems worth an experiment with a small bushman
style bow for it does not require real bow wood , but just ell long branches.



Offline dragonman

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Re: Backing for cherry
« Reply #14 on: November 02, 2015, 04:03:34 pm »
I once made a nice ash backed cherry, where the ash was 1/8 th thick,
'expansion and compression'.. the secret of life is to balance these two opposing forces.......