Leather working tools

[DC]

I want to make a tool for punching lacing holes along the edge of handles. I see three kinds of multi hole punches. One makes holes like //// another like this ---- and another like ''''. Is one better, as in stronger or is it just for looks? I'm planning on stealing a fork from the kitchen and modifying it.

[osage outlaw]

I have one with flat teeth like this ----   They have bent a little and aren't in line any more.  I got some other ones off of the big auction site that have beefier teeth at a slight angle. They seem more sturdy and won't bend as easy as the flat teeth.  I'll PM you the link.

[DC]

Got it, thanks OO

[Pat B]

All of the leather work I've done I've used the ------- style of stitching with running stitches and saddle stitching.

[Ranasp]

I've been doing some leatherworking for a little while and have done some research into it.  Just to be clear, you're talking about lacing chisels and not pricking irons, yes?  The first is for lace (flat cord) the latter is for stitching with sinew, waxed thread and that kind of stuff.

   If you're interested in pricking irons and the different brands (which will clue you in to quality) take a look at Nigel Armitage's videos.  They're a bit long, but you'll be amazed at what you can learn.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ThGbDAcK04o  is the first one about pricking irons. 

If you're talking chisels for lace, a fork is good for marking places but the tines will bend in short order and not be wide enough for lace to boot.  Well, that's if you're talking cheap forks, maybe you have a thick solid one you can work with.

[Wolf Watcher]

Depends on what type of lacing you plan to do and what type of leather you are working on.  I have made many large albums using 3/16" lace and for them I have made punches out of nails pounded flat to a chisel and sharpened.  I have different ones for different sizes of lace.  These punches allow me to be very accurate with placing and angling the holes to fit my needs.  Its a very time consuming method, but effective.  Also works on round edges like the round canteens I have made.  The head of the nail makes for easy striking with your mallet and you can make them as long or short as you prefer. 

[MWirwicki]

I use the        o o o o      style. 

[DC]

At the moment all I'm doing is lacing(if that's the right word) on the back of the handle.(see pic). I lace them on pretty tight and once or twice I've had a hole rip out. I've been using a single hole punch and thought that I would try a multi hole tool for more even spacing. I was just concerned that one of the three angles may be weaker than others. For the last few I have put a piece of piano wire in the fold between the holes and the edge to spread the load. This seems to work great but I want to get the spacing better.

PS I will watch the videos

[Ranasp]

Ah that's part of the problem, you're using a hole punch.  When you use a punch, you're removing a chunk of the leather thereby weakening it.  Normally when you see holes like that, they have a metal grommet reinforcing it.  What you want is something more like Wolf watcher described, a slit in the leather made with a chisel.  What those do is cut the leather a little bit, but mostly shoves it out of the way which means most of the leather is still there (unlike a punch, which removes it completely).  When you use a chisel or an iron, the wound you make ends up partially sealing up, especially if once you're done stitching you lightly hammer it with a mallet. 

[kevinnator11]

If you dampen the leather you can use a fork to mark where you want the stitches to be and then use a icepick to poke through.  That won't remove any leather and you can practice to find your depth.  I use a 3/32 drill bit in a dremmel and I've never had any problems.  If you're experiencing tear out your leather is too small.   

I agree with lightly tapping the stitching with a mallet after.  Also I use a good waxed thread.  I use the waxed thread from Tandy and after stitching and tapping I'll run a lighter along the stitch to heat the wax.  I would think that would make the stitching hold better but I don't know of anyone else doing it.

[DC]

Here's what I came up with. It work but leaves a bit to be desired. It does space the holes nicely.  I'll order a proper set. I hammered the fork flat, twisted and shortened the tines, Cut a slot in a bolt and silver soldered them together. A little filing and it was done. Took about a half hour. If nothing else I can still eat spaghetti with it

[Zuma]

Umm spagetti
I don't see why that won't work. Good
 idea getting the tines short and sharp.
All good ideas fellas.
Zuma